How long does a chestnut grow from a nut. How to sprout a chestnut from a nut? Several chestnuts in autumn are buried in the ground under a large tree, between its roots, covered with fallen leaves. With the advent of spring, a seat is dug up and sprouted ores are selected.

The southern handsome chestnut came to us from the Balkan Peninsula. Most gardeners try to decorate a summer cottage with a flowering tree that gives good shade and endures weather surprises. How to grow a chestnut from a walnut is the topic of our article.

How to grow a chestnut tree

First of all, you need to decide which chestnut to grow - edible (sowing) or decorative. The fruits of a tree from the beech family are eaten. "Horse chestnut" (esculus) with luxurious inflorescences-candles, decorating parks, squares and streets, belongs to the Sapindaceae family and produces inedible fruits.

Sowing species are not particularly popular. They begin to bear fruit only after 25-30 years, they plant and grow such chestnuts with a long-term perspective. "Horse chestnut" tolerates short frosts down to -35 ° C, sowing - more tender, does not withstand cold. Growing and caring for seed chestnut and horse chestnut do not differ. Consider whether it is possible to grow a full-fledged tree from a brilliant nut.

Growing methods

In autumn, cuttings can be cut from a chestnut branch, then planted in the country. If this is not possible, they collect fruit-nuts and germinate them. Planted in two ways:

1. Directly into open ground.
2. Having grown a seedling from a nut at home.

Selection of planting material

When self-collecting nuts for subsequent planting, they are carefully examined. Fruits that have damage to the shell, with spots of rot are subject to rejection. When buying planting material, pay attention to the frost resistance of the selected variety.

Notched (American), Japanese, sowing and Chinese types of noble chestnut are suitable for cultivation in central Russia. In Siberia and the Urals, it is extremely difficult to cultivate chestnuts; only varieties that are highly resistant to frost are chosen from among shrubs or medium-sized (up to 10 m).

Remember! Frost-resistant zoned varieties may not survive particularly harsh winters. At best, the result will be lower yields.

Landing Requirements

Chestnuts are undemanding to cultivation conditions, even infertile soil suits them.

Landing

You can plant chestnut fruits in spring, after stratification at home, and in autumn - in open ground or for seedlings.

At home

The fruits collected or purchased in the fall are kept at home at a low temperature, packed in a cotton or linen bag. Plastic bags do not allow air to pass through, the seed suffocates and becomes unviable. When winter is finally set on the street, the nuts are transferred to a container, sprinkled with wet sand or sphagnum. Then the container is placed in the refrigerator until the end of February.

Important! To germinate a chestnut, it is necessary to maintain humidity, but not to “drown” nuts in water.

By the end of winter, the fruits swell, the shell of the strongest bursts. Beak-sprouts appear from seeds at a temperature of 4–5°C. Nuts are immediately planted in cups 7–8 cm high with soil so that the soil mixture layer is at least 2 cm below and above. Next, the seedlings are placed on a lighted windowsill, protected from direct sunlight.

Chestnuts can be planted in a permanent place when the leaves unfold. However, experienced gardeners recommend to wait a little, let the tree grow stronger for a year or two at home. With this option, the plants organize a cold wintering: the pots are transferred to a cool place with moderate lighting. In the spring they are placed on the windowsills, in the summer they are placed outdoors.

In open ground

Nuts are planted in autumn or spring, having previously prepared them. Algorithm for the autumn planting of chestnut fruits:

1. Seed stratification. Fruits packed in a cardboard box or wooden box are covered with sand and put in the refrigerator for 2 weeks.
2. They are planted on school beds in grooves 5–6 cm deep.
3. The grooves are abundantly shed with water, nuts are placed in increments of 12–15 cm, and they fall asleep.

Shortly before spring planting, the nuts are placed in a suitable container and poured with warm water. Water is changed 1-2 times a day. Swollen fruits are planted in grooves.

Interesting! From the advice of a summer resident: “We germinate chestnuts like this: between the roots of large trees, where the earth is loose, we cover the fruits with fallen leaves. In the spring we find several pieces with sprouts.

General rules for caring for seedlings

Care of seedlings is not burdensome. In the first year, drying out of the soil is unacceptable, then - moderate watering, and after each procedure - weeding and loosening the soil.

Tip: "Mulching with peat, humus or tree bark will help moisture stay in the ground, keep the soil loose, and protect the plant from weeds."

Seedlings are fed only by leaf. It is preferable to use biological products "Mycorrhiza", "Trichodermin", "Fitosporin", which protect against pests and prevent diseases.

Transfer to the street

Transplanting a sprout from a seed to the street does not require additional knowledge and skills.

Transplant dates

The second half of May is considered optimal for transplantation for a temperate climate, when the risk of return frosts is negligible. In the south, where spring comes earlier, sprouted nuts are planted in April, focusing on the current weather. It is not recommended to plant seedlings in autumn; they do not always have time to take root in a new place before the onset of winter.

Choosing a place and preparing a pit for landing

An adult tree has a wide crown - five or more meters in diameter, depending on age. It is recommended to allocate a spacious area for the future tree in the garden, where there are no light-loving plants at a distance of 3 m.

In the first few years, young trees need light shading and protection from the wind. Therefore, a place can be chosen, for example, among plantings of early flowering perennials - hellebore, primrose, tulips and other bulbs. Loams with a slightly alkaline reaction are most suitable for normal tree development. A pit for planting a seedling is prepared as follows:

1. They make a hole with a diameter one and a half times larger than that of a seedling container, adding 10–15 cm for laying drainage.
2. Sand and humus (2:1) are added to the excavated soil to make it looser and more nutritious. You can add a little complex mineral fertilizer.
3. For drainage, pebbles or crushed stone are laid in a layer of at least 10 cm.
4. Pour the prepared soil mixture.

The seedling is carefully removed from the cup, being careful not to damage the tap root responsible for growth. Having placed it so that the root neck is above the surface of the earth, the hole is filled with soil and rammed. Upon completion of planting, the sprout is watered abundantly, the trunk circle is mulched with organic matter (peat, bark, wood chips, humus).

Important! In the first few days, the seedlings are covered with a paper bag to mitigate the effects of shock caused by changing growing conditions.

If the place chosen for the chestnut is blown by the winds, the seedling is surrounded by a low fence in the first years, and a support peg is installed for 3-4 years.

Layout

If you plan to plant a chestnut alley or picturesque groups of trees on a lawn for relaxation, you need to place the seedlings at a distance of at least 4 m from each other. Since caring for them under such circumstances is difficult, summer residents act differently:

• allocate space for a garden bed for growing seedlings;
• plants are planted in rows at a distance of 1–1.2 m from each other, step - 0.8–1.0 m;
• when the trees reach 2-3 years of age, they are moved to a permanent place.

On a note! Bonsai lovers grow and form a tree in the apartment. However, this requires a spacious room. But you can try to form a chestnut in an exotic style and directly in the country.

seedling care

Decorative and noble chestnuts are undemanding in care.

Watering

Up to 5–6 years of age, trees need to be watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out, but not swamping it. They take settled water, choose the time taking into account their own capabilities: in the morning or after sunset. Regular renewal of the mulch layer will protect the trees from lack of moisture. After watering, be sure to loosen the ground and weed the plantings.

top dressing

Seedlings are fed once a year. In the spring, after the snow melts, a mixture is added at the rate of 15 liters of water:

• potassium-phosphorus fertilizer - 25 g;
• ammonium nitrate - 20 g;
• urea - 20 g.

With weak growth in the fall, nitroammophoska can be applied.

Disease and pest control

For a young tree, fungal diseases are the most dangerous. The main symptom of the disease is red, drying leaves. Treatment is carried out by spraying Bordeaux liquid or "Fundazol".

At the same time, the soil is cultivated within a radius of about a meter. The main pests that threaten young plants are aphids and spider mites. From aphids, seedlings are treated with folk remedies (infusions of garlic or onions, tansy, Caucasian chamomile) or Fitoverm. Tick ​​prevention is carried out every 2 weeks with solutions of karbofos or "Fitoverma". From folk remedies, infusions of dissected cow parsnip or black henbane help.

Pruning and crown shaping

The first pruning is carried out when the chestnut reaches 3 years of age. To form a lush, spreading crown, the seedling is cut to a quarter of its height. Lateral shoots are shortened. Formative pruning is carried out annually, until the crown of the desired shape is obtained. After that, broken and dry branches, shoots frozen in winter, are regularly removed.

How to prepare for winter

A properly selected chestnut variety will allow it to winter without shelter. But for the first few years, juvenile trees grown from cuttings or walnuts need additional protection. It consists in the following: mulching with a thick layer of peat or compost and wrapping the stem with burlap or other cloth in several layers.

On a note! If the tree trunk has suffered from frost, in the spring the affected areas are disinfected and covered with a layer of garden pitch.

May is the time for chestnut blossoms. What could be more beautiful than the white candles of this beautiful tree? And then in his balls, similar to hedgehogs, brown shiny and smooth nuts ripen, from which this miracle grows. Everyone in life should plant one tree, and not necessarily a man. In this way, we can contribute to the greening of the earth and the revival of nature. Chestnut requires attention and care, it is not so easy to germinate, but if you have patience and learn some features, it will not be difficult to grow it. If you decide to plant a chestnut, it remains only to find out how best to germinate it so that it grows into a real handsome man and pleases everyone around.

What are chestnuts?

The plants in question are not at all the ones that we are all used to seeing in the parks and gardens of our neighbors in the country. In some cases, experts even refer these trees to completely different families.

Usually the height of the tree reaches from 1 to 35 meters, depending on the specific species. Its beautiful pyramidal inflorescences adorn the gardens for two months - from May to June. To know how to properly grow a chestnut from a fruit, you need to understand its structure.

Each fruit of this plant is in a shell, which is enveloped by a peel with thorns. As a rule, one to three small nuts can be found in one shell. It should be remembered that chestnuts create a dense shadow due to their crown.

In addition, they have very strong surface roots. These are the main factors that affect the growth of surrounding crops, which rarely grow near this tree. Correcting this shortcoming is very simple - you need to put a few benches here, turning the space around the chestnut tree into a cozy corner.

Preparation of chestnut planting material

Where to get it? Of course, under the crown of a large beautiful chestnut tree. Fallen chestnuts are harvested in the fall, moreover, with a margin, so that there is plenty to choose from for the best specimens for planting. Next, one of the stratification methods is selected.

1. The first way is simple. The fruits collected in autumn are laid right there, between the roots of the "parent" tree, sprinkled with sand, covered with fallen leaves and left for several months. In the spring, they dig them up, select a few pieces and plant them where needed.

Articles about indoor and ornamental plants

2. The second way is more complicated. The collected fruits are placed in a cellar, refrigerator or other cool place. They are stored there until spring, periodically checking that the planting material does not dry out.

Cold stimulates fruiting and starts the reproduction program. A dried fruit is not suitable for planting, because. unable to give rise to a new tree.

Don't want to wait until spring to plant a chestnut tree? Stratification can be accelerated. To do this, the fruits are placed in a container with wet sand and kept in a cool place for 10 days. This is quite enough to land them in the fall.

Planting a chestnut

Before planting a nut in the ground, its peel must be softened. To do this, the fruit should be placed in a container with warm water. The fluid will constantly need to be changed as it cools. The duration of this procedure is 7 days. After that, large, white sprouts appear in the fruits.

This is the basis for planting nuts in the ground. It is recommended to grow a seedling at home in a plastic or wooden container. It is better to choose a large pot right away in order to avoid the need for a transplant. In a bulk container, chestnut roots can develop without oppression.

The depth of planting a nut should be equal to three times the length of the fruit itself. Therefore, if the diameter of the chestnut seed is 3 cm, then the planting hole should not be less than 9 cm deep. Trees planted in spring should produce better fruits (if we are talking about an edible species).

However, when growing chestnuts for ornamental purposes, experienced gardeners recommend planting nuts in the fall. Then the seedling has a better chance of survival, and the tree turns out to be strong and branchy.

Chestnut care tips

1. After 55-60 days, small sprouts should already appear. Now is the time to prepare the container for planting. A layer of drainage is poured at the bottom of a pot or other container, and a soil mixture is placed on top. Absolutely any soil is suitable, whether it be from a local park or from a garden plot. Sprouted fruits are planted at a sufficient depth, about 2 cm. If the seeds are buried deeper, they will break through very slowly, but if placed near the surface, they can dry out and die.

2. When the chestnut grows up, it can be planted in open ground in a summer cottage or in the yard. Planting pits are preliminarily prepared with a drainage layer (crushed stone is better) and a thin layer of slaked lime. Trees should be distributed on the plot taking into account future growth, therefore, it is necessary to keep a distance and plant seedlings at a distance of at least 4-5 meters from each other.

3. Delicate and vulnerable seedlings need regular watering and feeding. You can feed chestnuts with organic matter or mixed fertilizers. This is done twice a year: with the arrival of early spring and autumn. Periodically, weeds are removed around the plant, and the soil layer is loosened. For better growth, the soil must "breathe" and be enriched with oxygen. During the active growth of the plant, young shoots from the trunk and shrunken branches are removed. This will provide the seedling with growth strength and further strengthen healthy branches.

4. With the advent of real frosts and the arrival of winter, young chestnuts are covered with burlap and covered with dry fallen leaves. This will help young trees to winter safely.

Diseases and pests of chestnut

Regardless of the variety of chestnut (decorative or edible), trees are attacked by tree mites, chestnut moths and powdery mildew. To avoid damage, it is necessary to observe preventive measures - treat trees with disinfecting solutions 2 times a month.

How to recognize powdery mildew? If you see that the leaves of the chestnuts have become covered with white or brown spots, then this is powdery mildew. You can rid the plants of the pest if you make phosphorus or nitrogen fertilizers, as well as use fungicides.

If the plant was attacked by a chestnut moth, then an integrated approach is needed. Chemical agents that need to be used to treat a damaged tree will help get rid of pests. A popular effective drug is Lufox-105, it helps to destroy pests at different stages of growth. The substance is not toxic, therefore it will not harm the environment and will not kill the bees.

Chestnut is one of the most ancient plants on our planet. Its main features:

It should be noted that not all varieties of chestnut trees lend themselves to home cultivation. To date, there are at least 30 known and common types of chestnut. However, only a few are recommended for home cultivation.

How to choose the right nut for planting

For a successful planting, it is important to choose the right chestnut nut

• Only fallen nuts are suitable for planting.
• Since not all of them will germinate, it is recommended to harvest at least 2 times more (for example, 1-2 trees will grow from 5 pieces).
• The material is suitable for use only if there are no soft spots, cracks or other damage.
• Only beautiful-looking, firm and even chestnuts will sprout successfully. It is recommended to take them from trees with a strong, massive trunk. Pay attention to the size - planting unripe small nuts will not lead to success.

When to plant and in what conditions to store chestnuts before planting

A good time for planting chestnuts is spring, or rather, the end of February and the first decade of March. The process of storing seeds has a number of nuances:

• usually proceeds with losses, which is better to take into account in advance and make a safety stock of planting material;
• some of the nuts will dry up by spring. Store your seed chestnuts in a bag filled with damp sand to prevent the fruit from losing viability.

Seed chestnuts should be in the sand for at least 2-5 months before planting. If you kept them all winter in ordinary paper bags, take them out closer to spring and place them in wet sand. Close the container tightly, periodically opening the lid for ventilation, or make small holes. Some gardeners put chestnuts in a box of sand and dig it in late autumn under the snow.

And yet, even with proper storage, the peel of the seeds hardens, and this will complicate the exit of the young shoot to the outside. Artificial stratification will help to solve the problem:

• seeds are immersed in warm water;
• stand before planting 5-7 days;
• be sure to change the water once a day.

The hard skin will soften after soaking, which will increase the chances of sprouting nuts. The chestnut is ready for planting if a white sprout has hatched. The embryo is activated, now it is easier for the sprout to germinate.

To facilitate germination, it is necessary to keep the chestnuts in water for 5-7 days before planting.

Sometimes seedlings are planted from nuts in the fall. This method also has its adherents. The advantage of autumn planting is that chestnuts do not have time to dry out and there is no storage stage in the sand. However, stratification is still necessary to ensure the emergence of sprouts.

Landing

Requirements for the pot and soil composition

Chestnuts begin to germinate in pots with a capacity of 300-500 ml. The minimum rules that it is desirable to comply with at the initial stage:

• there are no special requirements for the composition of the soil - almost any soil is suitable, it is enough to purchase an ordinary garden soil mixture in a gardening store and fill the planting container with it;
• place a thin drainage layer at the bottom of the pot;
• the substrate when planting seeds should be well moistened.

How deep to plant

Given the small volume of the pots, the prepared seeds should be approximately at the level of the upper third of the container. Chestnuts should be planted to a depth of 3 to 5 centimeters. Be sure to follow the recommendation, otherwise:

• with deeper embedding, there is a chance that the sprout simply will not come to the surface. The deeper into the substrate, the less oxygen and the colder the temperature of the environment. This means that the young shoot will not be able to overcome the thickness of the soil;
• with high embedding, the walnut will dry out.

If all the rules are followed, shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks.

Conditions for normal germination of nuts

Fruit chestnuts have been grown in Russia for many years. During this time, the plant has acquired immunity and resistance to harsh climatic conditions. But the initial requirements for landing conditions remained key:

• enough light - in dark places, the seedlings will grow stunted, the base of the trunk will also be weak. It is advisable to place pots with planted seeds on the sunny side of the apartment;
• drought protection;
• moderate soil moisture;
• warm. Protect pots from hypothermia, and plants that have made their way outside from drafts. A good temperature for seedlings is + 17 ... + 26 ° C.

Transplanting chestnuts in open ground

For a successful transplant, many nuances must be taken into account, including the depth of the pit.

May is the right time to transplant chestnuts from pots to the ground. Every year, the May air temperature fluctuates, so to choose the right time, you need to take into account additional subtleties of transplantation:

• as soon as even warm weather has been established and the threat of frost has passed, begin to act;
• a little earlier, in April, it is sometimes useful to take pots with seedlings outside so that the plant adapts to the street air and begins to acquire immunity.

It is necessary to pinch the tap root, then in the open field the plant will quickly develop a powerful root system.

Site selection and landing pit preparation

• Keep in mind that the roots of the plant are shallow, and later grow horizontally, so the plant should not be too deep. The depth of the pit for seedlings depends on the degree of development of the root system.
• The tree prefers moderately moist soils - aridity, as well as waterlogging of the soil, is unacceptable for chestnuts.
• According to the composition of soils, chernozems are preferred.
• A maturing tree will acquire a tent-shaped crown, which will give a dense shadow - this is one of the reasons why there is no place for other (especially light-loving) plants near the chestnut tree.
• Remember that chestnut is a tree of powerful growth, so an abundance of small "neighbors" in the root zone is undesirable. Close proximity to other plants will lead to the impoverishment of the soil, the chestnut tree will lose a significant part of the nutrients.

It is advisable to plant chestnut seedlings near the fences, leaving the approach to it from two or three sides. In the presence of underground wine cellars, chestnut trees are often placed on top - the roots grow shallowly, and the shade received from an adult tree will subsequently protect the surrounding soil from drying out and overheating.

Precautionary measures

If you plan to eat chestnuts, then plant trees away from:

• railway tracks;
• freeways;
• industrial facilities;
• sources of radiation.

Chestnut trees have a high ability to absorb toxic substances. Ideal places for growing - a summer residence, a country estate, a quiet city center in the absence of a busy traffic flow.

Planting chestnut trees along the path

Landing pattern

• Since we are talking about large trees, even the smallest species require sufficient space around them. Specify in advance the descriptions of the characteristics of the variety of chestnut that is supposed to be planted. The minimum distance between seedlings is 3 meters.
• If you plan to plant the grown trees in a couple of years, then in the first summer place them at a distance of 60–85 cm from each other.
• Protect young plants from direct sunlight.
• The depth of the planting hole should correspond to the root system of the seedling, on average from 35 to 60 cm.
• The width of the pit is about 55 cm, cubic in shape.
• Trees are planted mainly in groups in one line. Usually this is the perimeter of the territory or the contour around garden paths and city sidewalks. Spot planting of a plant is possible according to the interests of the landscape design composition on the site.
• It makes no sense to place chestnuts in pairs, or even more so in the form of a plantation. Their shadows will overlap each other, interfering with the full development of first seedlings, and then adult trees.

Step-by-step instruction

In order to properly plant a chestnut in open ground, you must strictly follow the instructions.

1. The bottom of the excavated holes is covered with a drainage layer ~10–15 cm thick. Sand, crushed stone, and pebbles are used in approximately equal amounts.
2. The root substrate is prepared from humus, sand and “native” hole earth (proportions 1:1:2).
3. In soil with high acidity, slaked lime will improve root growth at the initial stage, it is enough to add 0.5 kg to each well, after mixing with the substrate. In the absence of lime, dolomite flour will give the same effect (it is sold in gardening stores).
4. Immediately, the plant will need potassium- and phosphorus-containing fertilizers, literally 1-2 handfuls of an adult per 1 root.
5. Holding the young plant by the stem, its root is immersed in the hole, and the root neck should be at ground level. At this time, the substrate is covered with hands from all sides. Lightly compact the top layer near the growing point of the trunk.
6. To protect a fragile seedling from the winds, it must be tied to a peg. Prepare them in advance, set them at a distance of 5–7 cm from the root.
7. The height of the planting hole should be slightly increased so that when the soil shrinks, the stem of the plant does not become bare.

Care

On average, chestnut seedlings gain strength over the first 4–5 years. If the above requirements are met, the tree will grow by 20–25 centimeters by the next season, but then it will begin to grow rapidly in all respects and will reach one and a half meters in height in the fifth year. Fruiting is expected in the 6-8th year of planting. But much depends on the correct care.

Watering and feeding

1. Initial watering. Water will be required immediately after planting seedlings. Pour 3-4 buckets into each hole.
2. Watering the first season. In order for young seedlings to take root well in their nests, make watering regular. Pour enough water so that it gets wet 10 cm deep, but does not become waterlogged.
3. Mulch once a week. At the same time, the degree of humidity of the earth around the roots will be visible. Make sure that a hard earthen crust does not form around the trunk, the danger of which is that the aeration of the root soil worsens, and the risk of bacterial infections increases.
4. Regular watering of a growing chestnut. Excess moisture is as dangerous as drought. Against the background of dry weather, a growing tree needs 1 bucket of clean water per 1 sq. m area. Frequency - as the soil dries out (it should be kept moderately moist).
5. Autumn feeding. Nitroammofosk diluted in water (per 10 liters 15–20 g), 1 time per autumn.
6. Spring feed. An aqueous solution of urea (10-15 g of powder is needed per 10-liter bucket), 1 time per spring season.
7. Mullein in summer. 1 bucket of raw materials is diluted with 5 buckets of water, thoroughly mixed. Seedlings of 2-5 years of age are brought under the root of 1 liter of liquid 3-5 times a year, older trees require 2-5 buckets of the mixture for the same period of time.
8. Fortified mature trees mulch. This is done immediately after watering. For mulching, sawdust or garden humus is recommended.

crown formation

The crown of young chestnuts begins to form from the age of 3:

• a quarter of its height is cut in the spring;
• at the same time, you need to slightly trim the side branches, and shorten the central “conductor”;
• then the scheme is repeated regularly;
• from the age of 8–11 years, the crown of a matured tree needs closer attention - it grows, the length and thickness of the branches increase. At the same time, frequent pruning helps to stimulate its growth. The plant acquires an unprecedented aesthetic beauty and becomes a leading player in landscape design.

Preparing for winter

Mulching chestnut with dry leaves

If, beyond the age of 7–10 years, chestnuts do not need special preparation, then there is a special approach to seedlings on the eve of winter. What needs to be done without fail:

• as soon as the first cold weather came, the seedling needs to be mulched with dry leaves - they will protect the root system from freezing;
• the addition of humus will enhance the effect, a thick layer of organic matter will become a reliable protection against frost outside, and will also nourish the roots before hibernation;
• outside, a young tree is wrapped with insulating materials. Dry felt and an outer film coating are suitable for this purpose (otherwise the fabric will get wet and cause the bark to rot).

Chestnut insulation with dry felt and film

In regions with a temperate climate, the insulation of the trunk with materials is not a mandatory measure. This recommendation applies to conditions in Siberia and the Far East. And also for situations when an abnormally cold winter has set in with high humidity.

How to grow chestnut bonsai at home

Home "bonsai" is originally a dwarf, undersized small-leaved variety of chestnut tree. Information about the genetic properties of a plant can be found in encyclopedias or consult with specialists from the botanical garden. They will tell you whether the project is worth starting and whether it will be successful.

Please note that the fruits of ornamental chestnut varieties are inedible. In addition, homemade chestnuts rarely grow to the ripening of nuts, because bees are engaged in pollination, and they are out of place in the apartment. Self-pollinating varieties have not been bred by breeders, since they are not of particular interest (the whole “zest” is in the crown, and not in the fruits).

Home grown dwarf chestnut

Standard care:

• prepared seeds are planted in pots in the fall;
• plants are kept on the sunny side in a warm room;
• a year later they begin to form a crown;
• pruning should be done twice a year (spring and autumn), off-season adjustment is also acceptable - only if the plant grows rapidly;
• fertilize according to the recommendations for a specific type of bonsai;
• regular watering, not allowing excess water.

Diseases and pests

Growing chestnuts is greatly complicated by diseases and pests. Threats are present even in cases where the gardener looks after his wards in good faith. The main thing is not to get lost when a problem is detected, but to take competent measures to eliminate it. First you need to know what pests and diseases can affect a chestnut tree.

Table: problems that chestnuts can be prone to

Do not use toxic preparations that can harm pollinating bees. Otherwise, the tree will not bear the expected fruit. Regarding fruit types of chestnut, toxins are dangerous in any case, because ripe nuts should be safe for humans. Damaged fallen leaves must be burned.

Photo gallery: chestnut pests and diseases

Growing chestnut trees requires a lot of effort. But all of them are rewarded with interest, if you properly care for the plant. Being in favorable conditions, seedlings of ornamental chestnuts will please with a stylish exterior, and fruit species - with delicious nuts with a rich content of nutrients.

When the chestnut trees are in bloom, it is safe to say that it is warm and it is time to boldly take off warm sweaters and put on light dresses. An equally beautiful sight is when brown glossy fruits begin to fall from the trees. If you find such a germinated fruit in the spring, you can safely plant it and soon expect shoots. Growing a chestnut from a walnut is not so difficult process and you can try it.

How to plant walnut chestnuts: a quick guide

1. In the autumn period, as it matures, we select planting material. It is best to take a freshly fallen chestnut.
2. Place the blanks in a humid and cold environment. Take a small container and fill it with river sand. Put the planting material there and put it in the refrigerator. Such a procedure will ensure greater endurance and successful germination during planting a chestnut with a nut. The preparation takes about two weeks. This method is suitable if you plan to plant seeds in the fall.
3. If you want to plant in the spring, then we put the planting material for the whole winter on the top shelf of the refrigerator and place it in a warm environment before planting. To do this, put our chestnuts in warm water for five days. Remember to constantly change the water as it cools. This leads to the fact that the shell begins to soak and the embryo swells, awakens.
4. To grow a chestnut from a nut, properly prepare the seat. The planting depth should not exceed 3 cm or three diameters of the nut itself. Too much depth will slow down germination, and too much will cause the planting material to dry out. It is worth noting that spring sprouts will appear on the day of the week later than autumn ones. But during spring planting, the tree has time to prepare for frost.

How to sprout a chestnut from a nut: alternative methods

There is an easier way to grow a chestnut from a walnut. You can harvest in late autumn, when nature itself has prepared the fruits for planting. Then plant them in flower pots in early January. You can water the crops like ordinary indoor flowers. In the spring, we plant the sprout in a permanent place and water it periodically. Before planting chestnuts grown from walnut, be sure to trim the tap root. This will help form a strong root system.

The third way is even easier. In the fall, after the leaves fall, cover the fruits that remain under the tree with it. In the spring, after the snow has melted, dig up the leaves. You will definitely find at least one sprouted nut. You just have to take the finished planting material and plant it in the prepared place. In a couple of weeks you will see the first shoots.

Horse chestnut ordinary: the secrets of successful cultivation

After planting, care for the tree should be thorough and regular. The first step is to ensure moderate humidity and watering, good lighting. Avoid direct sunlight on the seedling, as this will destroy it.

If you have already decided how you are going to grow a chestnut walnut, prepare everything in advance. If this is the flowerpot method, then dig up some earth from the place that will be permanent for the tree, and pour it into the pot. If these are landings directly into the ground, then stock up on organic and inorganic fertilizers and alternately apply them to the soil.

Planting a chestnut with a nut should be carried out in a place where there are no other trees at a distance of three meters. Remember that next to the chestnut, the rest of the plants wither, so this should be a place to relax away from the garden. The land can be any, but best of all, the seedling will take root in loamy soils containing limestone.

It is also quite possible to grow it yourself, for example or.