“Bartender, double whiskey! And without ice! - the average person in our country associates this phrase with the Wild West, Clint Eastwood, and also cool guys on Wall Street, turning over millions of dollars a day in stock trades. Unable to buy a furnished mansion on the ocean beach in the vicinity of Miami, many are forced to be content with only certain available attributes of the “sweet life”.
One of these iconic objects is the bar counter in your own kitchen. It introduces us to the global consumer culture right at breakfast, lunch and dinner. True, you will have to perform the functions of a bartender yourself, but this is only a reason to be smart. In the absence of whiskey, soda and ice, the table can be tastefully served with cold vodka with a crispy cucumber or vodka with aromatic lard; aristocrats can drink champagne in the morning.
In our opinion, the bar counter is democratic, creative, and promotes communication. This is great!
Although the bar counter at home is the dream of many of our fellow citizens, it is still a rather rare guest in the domestic private interior. Is it possible to fit an element of beautiful American life into the domestic apartment reality in a practical and tasteful way?
This is a table - they eat on it
The height of a European-style dining table is 75 cm. The classic counter in a drinking establishment rises 120 cm above the floor; there are options from 110 to 130 cm. You have to climb onto a high chair. But, leaving the establishment after libation, the start of the high stool is taken on the move. Leaning on a high counter with your elbows is not considered shameful, unlike sitting primly at the dinner table.
In drinking establishments, only high bar counters are used. The higher you sit, the better you can see the stripper
The size of kitchens in typical apartments does not allow practically all fantasies in the field of design to be realized. Where there is no room for a “full-size” rack, a compromise option is possible. A kitchen bar counter can serve as an extension of the kitchen countertop. That is, have a height of 90 to 95 cm, depending on the height of the kitchen base. Perhaps it will not look so “cool,” but the functionality is noticeably increased: the counter will serve as a working area for cooking, a rather convenient table for eating, and no one will interfere with drinking alcoholic beverages. In our opinion, the “medium” 90 cm format is more appropriate for home use.
The stand, made at the same height (90 cm) with the working area, is its continuation
This is a chair - they sit on it
There are two types of bar stools on sale: universal with an adjustable seat and a fixed height. With the first type, everything is simple: we sit down at the table and lower and raise the seat so that it is comfortable for us. Non-adjustable models have to be purchased for the specific height of the installed tabletop. For a tabletop of 120 cm, the height of the chair seat should be about 85 cm, for 90 cm - 63 cm.
As for the design of the chairs, this is a matter of taste. One will like a wooden stool in a country style, another will like a high half-chair with a back and armrests in a hi-tech style. Bar stools must have a leg bar. Particularly noteworthy are the high stepladder chairs, which have two crossbars that simultaneously serve as steps. This is a practical item for an apartment with high ceilings and a small area, in which there is simply nowhere to place a full-fledged stepladder. An additional bonus: thanks to the second, upper crossbar, you can seat children whose short legs do not reach the lower bar behind the step-stool.
The bar stool has two steps
A small digest of design ideas for those interested in how to make a bar counter in the kitchen with your own hands different types dwellings:
Luxury apartment or country mansion
For the happy owners of spacious living space, the question of where to place furniture is not relevant. The main thing is how to do it conveniently and beautifully. However, it makes no sense for wealthy people to do the interior design themselves; it’s easier (and better) to hire a specially trained person. If you have space and money, you can treat yourself to a dining table for 12 people, a breakfast table for 4 people, a separate cooking island and a high bar counter. This is correct: you should have breakfast at one table, have dinner at another, and drink a martini at a third. Just like fitness body ballet should be attended in the first half of the day, and diamonds and stilettos should be worn in the evening.
Everything is okay in this kitchen. A wall-mounted two-zone work area, an island work area with a high 120 cm bar counter attached to it, and an island work area combined with a 90 cm high bar counter. The rest simply did not fit into the frame
Studio apartment and private house
Studio apartments are becoming increasingly popular, especially in big cities, where interior partitions are not initially built (if the house is new) or are demolished (in an old house). Of course, this does not make the living space larger, but the undivided space is perceived as more spacious than when it is divided into cubicle rooms. To organize life in one large room, it has to be divided into functional zones. A hand-made bar counter is perfect for this. Located on the border of the zones, it will take up virtually no space, while clearly marking out the space.
Competent functional zoning in the studio. A bar counter in the kitchen visually divides the space and blocks the view from the sofa of dirty dishes if they have accumulated near the sink
The high height of the countertop in this case is a clear advantage: sitting on the sofa in the guest area, guests will not see that the kitchen is a mess and mountains of unwashed dishes. The stand will screen and hide this disgrace. A similar approach is also typical for private houses, where the kitchen is often combined into one room with a dining room and has an area of 16-20 m2.
Turning the sofa towards the TV in front and towards the kitchen with the back, placing a counter behind it is also a good solution for an open space
Kitchen in a standard series house
Arranging furniture in a kitchen with an area of 10-15 m2 is the most difficult. It seems that, compared to the “Khrushchev”, there is a lot of space. But in reality it turns out that it is very difficult to squeeze a normal set with a working area of sufficient length, a dining table and a bar counter into this area. You have to sacrifice dimensions and make everything smaller, which negatively affects functionality. In our opinion, an attempt to cram a full set of furniture into a medium-sized room in a rich way cannot be crowned with complete success.
A designer from a furniture company tried to place everything the apartment owners wanted in a 12 m2 room. As you can see, it turned out neither this nor that. No normal table, no counter
It’s possible to somehow get out of this situation if you come up with a non-standard design move and place the rack so that it takes up almost no space.
You can place the rack in a minimal area by combining it with the window sill, if the height allows. It is advisable that the windows do not face the trash heap
Small kitchen
Owners of a small-sized kitchen should not even think about placing everything they want in it. You have to choose: a dining table or a bar counter. Some people choose to give up the table. A bar counter instead of a table in a small kitchen is a “bachelor” option, which can actually be quite convenient. We recommend installing the tabletop at a height of 90 cm, level with the work area. Then it becomes universal: it is used as a cutting table, for eating, and for work.
Bar counter in the kitchen in a tiny room of only 5.6 m2
The “normal” table had to be sacrificed. At the same time, there is all the necessary modern equipment for cooking, and the tabletop is quite convenient for eating and working, as well as for gatherings with friends. It turned out well that the height of the window sill coincides with the level of the tabletop.
Another very small kitchen. In the foreground is not a dining table, as it seems, but an IKEA bar table with a height of 90 cm
What to make a bar counter from
What and how to make a bar counter with your own hands? First of all, let's talk about the material of the tabletop:
- Postforming. Cheap, cheerful.
Postforming tabletop and metal pipe leg as a support. It doesn't get any cheaper
- Tree. Living natural material will be appropriate in the interior of any style. The wood is pleasant to the touch and easy to process. You can choose a special oil as a coating plant origin, the countertop impregnated with it is not afraid of water
If you have red cedar growing in your dacha, do not cut it for firewood. A solid trunk will make a wonderful bar counter for the kitchen.
- Glass. You need to understand that you will need thick glass, from 8 mm, grinding the edges and gluing fasteners will have to be ordered at the factory, so the product will cost a penny. Nice, but the clear material requires maintenance and is cold to the touch
The glass top goes well with the trendy minimalist design
- Stone. Expensive, chic, durable. We do not recommend using marble; food dyes leave marks on it that are difficult to wash off. Granite, including artificial granite, is more practical.
Stone countertop - beautiful, prestigious, practical. By the way, expensive stone, unlike cheap postforming, can be repaired; scratches and minor defects are relatively easy to eliminate
The combination of stone and wood in one interior looks great
The tabletop can be installed on cabinets when you need to save space.
If the base for the rack is cabinets, it is advisable that it protrudes beyond them so that there is room to place the legs. The illustration shows a bar counter with a two-level tabletop
An example of a bar counter in a loft-style kitchen. Cabinets and appliances are hidden behind a brutal brick wall
If the task is not to partially block the view of the working part of the kitchen with a stand and there are enough cabinets, the tabletop can be installed on legs.
A “transparent” bar counter, as in the photo, due to the absence of furniture or screen below, visually lightens the interior
Understanding how to make a bar counter with your own hands and how much time and money it will require, you can decide whether it is worth doing the work yourself. Or it’s better to contact specialists.
How to make a bar counter with your own hands: master class
Finally, a short photo master class on how to make a bar counter with your own hands. We will not give the dimensions and drawings of this stand; it is quite large and designed for a specific interior. In any case, each owner of an apartment or private house will decide design issues based on personal preferences. A bar counter at home is always an individual project. Our material is not so much an instruction for making a bar counter, but a master class in making high-quality built-in furniture. Experienced cabinetmakers will introduce us to some of the secrets of their craft. We hope this will be useful to some readers.
The owners of the house decided to equip a spacious kitchen area with a bar counter, already furnished with furniture, the style of which needed to be maintained. We decided on the materials: dark wood, chromed metal and smoky glass.
The wooden elements used to make the stand were planed oak bars 32x48 mm, oak veneer, birch plywood 20 and 5 mm thick
The bars were made and sanded in the shop, but otherwise the furniture was entirely manufactured on site. The bars are cut carefully and at the desired angle using a miter saw. They are prepared under the tabletop frame
On a tabletop template made in advance from 15 mm plywood, cut-to-size bars are laid out
To then mount the glass inserts, grooves are milled into the bars
The parts are connected using plug-in tenons, for which holes are selected using a dowel router
The crossbars have beveled edges
First, preliminary assembly is carried out on the spikes, but without glue yet
After making sure that all the parts of the structure fit together, proceed to assembly with glue. To ensure the best result, the element to be glued is tightened with a tape clamp
Individual parts are assembled into a single structure
The tabletop frame is temporarily fixed on the template and precisely adjusted to the template using a turning cutter
The external contours of the template and frame now coincide, the initially straight bars are rounded
Sanding the end of the tabletop
The outer contour of the frame is processed with a profile cutter
This is what the edge profile looks like
Craftsmen begin to manufacture a curved partition consisting of individual panels. Main material - birch plywood
A frame matrix is made from chipboard, repeating the radius of future panels. It is bent onto its end and plywood 5 mm thick is glued in four layers. Once dry, it will retain its shape. Panels are milled to size directly on the die
The panels are removed from the matrix and veneered. Protruding edges of oak veneer are processed with an edge router
The edges of the panels are also veneered. When processing them, two panels are placed side by side so that the router remains horizontal
Only now the panels are trimmed to length
The ends of the panels will be covered with bars, their edges will be pre-rounded
Select holes for tenons in panels and bars
The bars are slightly thicker than the panels; a groove is milled into them, which will hide the joint of the parts
We begin to manufacture the upper cornice of the rack, where the spotlights will be built in. It will be based on a plywood tabletop template. A groove 14 mm wide and 6 mm deep is milled along the perimeter at a distance of several centimeters from the edge. It will hide the attachment points of the cornice to the ceiling
The plane is veneered from the outer edge to the groove. Veneer should be selected so that the fibers are located across the contour
Sand the contour, removing the glue
Align the edge of the veneer along the groove with a turning cutter
Veneering of the outer contour is completed
Start veneering the inner plane, selecting veneer according to the pattern
Align the edge of the veneer of the inner plane along the groove
Drill recesses with a router for attaching chrome pipes in the cornice
The pipes will pass through the tabletop, through holes are made in it. To prevent chipping when drilling, a wooden block is attached from below
Holes are ready
The parts are ready, all that remains is to tint and varnish them
The cornice is ready, the groove is closed with a wooden bead
The installation of the bar counter begins. The cornice is attached to the ceiling, the fasteners will hide the glazing bead
Assemble the lower part
Install glass into tabletop cells
The bar counter is ready
Saving useful space is a problem for most. Home craftsmen will go to any lengths to create at least a little more space. IN Lately More and more often, they settle on such a solution as a home-made bar counter, which carries several useful functions at once, without requiring large financial costs. In today's article we will talk about the possibilities of its independent installation in various types with step-by-step instructions and photo illustrations of production.
The choice of the type of such a structure will depend entirely on the requirements that are placed on it. Let's look at the main types of bar counters that you can install yourself.
Wall design. The tabletop is attached along the wall, and various small items are located underneath it. This type of bar counter saves free space and is used as.
Island option. The countertop is mounted in the middle of the kitchen. It can be used as a dining room or... This option is only applicable to .
Peninsula. This stand is an L-shaped (less commonly U-shaped) tabletop, one of the long sides of which is adjacent to the wall and is used as a work surface. The rest can be used as a dining or buffet table.
Mobile view. In fact, this is not even a bar counter in the usual sense, but an elongated table on wheels that can be placed anywhere and then removed so as not to get in the way. However, such a construction has a right to exist. Such bar counters are used instead of a table.
The number of legs for the bar counter may vary. It all depends on the length and width of the tabletop. For short bar counters, you can get by with one leg.
wall bar table
Bar counter in the kitchen: height from the floor and other optimal parameters
The dimensions of the bar counter depend on the dimensions of the room, but there are certain generally accepted standards. The height is usually 1.1-1.3 m for free-standing bar counters intended for zoning rooms. If the countertop is adjacent to, then it must correspond to it. In this case, the height will be 85-90 cm. Most often, such racks serve as a dining or work area. There are bar counters for the most – 75 cm from the floor. They can be used as a full-fledged desktop.
The width of the kitchen bar counter should not be less than 30 cm. Otherwise, there can be no question of any functionality. The best option would be a size of 80 cm, but if the kitchen is small, you can reduce it to 55-60 cm.
The length of the bar counter is calculated depending on the number of people who will be behind it at the same time. For a comfortable position, there should be at least 60 cm per person.
Making a bar counter in the loft style: what is required for this, step-by-step instructions for the production of work with photo examples
The bar counter is larger, after all, applicable in cafe bars. That's why for step by step instructions We chose a similar room. To work you will need:
- solid wood board, 30-40 mm thick for the tabletop;
- boards, 10-15 mm thick for finishing;
- , self-tapping screws;
- sander;
- aerosol paint in cans;
- nails, ;
- PVA glue.
The base for the bar counter will be a support made of foam concrete, into which self-tapping screws can be easily screwed. We will not dwell on this today - it is not difficult and there is no point in deviating from the topic.
Do-it-yourself bar counter: step-by-step instructions for making a loft-style structure
Let's consider all stages of work:
| Illustration | Description of action |
 | We attach a wooden tabletop to a base made of foam blocks and polish it perfectly. You can choose any shape for the future stand. The tabletop boards are joined together at an angle of 45° and glued using PVA. |
 | The cladding board is painted (you can choose any color), and after drying, the surface is cleaned with a grinder. This action allows you to “expose” the structure of the wood, making it clearly visible. |
 | We attach slats to the foam block base onto which the cladding will be fixed. The slats are attached with self-tapping screws, which are quite easily screwed into the foam block. |
 | Using nails, we fix the cladding to the slats. The boards can be fastened evenly along the entire length, or it is possible to place them in parts in a chaotic manner - this will give clarity to the structure of the tree. |
 | Lastly, paint the tabletop. In our case, the color chosen is black (after all, this is a night bar), but for the house you can choose lighter colors. It is better to use auto enamel as a coating - it gives more shine. A final coat of varnish wouldn't hurt either. |
Helpful information! If you don’t want to do woodworking, you can buy a ready-made countertop for a bar counter or order it from any furniture workshop. Instead of a foam block base in an apartment, it makes sense to use LSTK (light steel thin-walled structures), which are sheathed with gypsum board.
Quite often, plasterboard with a light steel frame made of metal profiles is used as the basis for a bar counter, which is subsequently finished with various materials to suit a certain style. Today we will definitely talk about the technology of assembling the base from wood - we have no right to skip this topic, but first we will consider the option of making a bar counter for the house from wood.
Wooden bar counter: tools, materials, manufacturing nuances
These are quite common. Wood is an environmentally friendly material - it is this fact that most attracts home craftsmen. After all, in the conditions of gas pollution in modern megacities, you always want to have an island of natural nature in your apartment.
What you will need to make a wooden bar counter for your home
To work you need to prepare:
- timber 50×50 mm for mounting the frame;
- sanded board or MDF panels for cladding;
- , square;
- drill, hammer, nails, hacksaw;
- polished board, 40-50 mm thick for the tabletop;
- furniture varnish.
Step-by-step instructions for creating a wooden bar counter for your home
Let's study the step-by-step instructions with photos:
| Illustration | Description of action |
 | The first thing to do is to assemble the frame of the structure. When doing this work, be careful with the angles - they must be exactly 90°, otherwise the stand will be crooked. For convenience, it is better to use a square. |
 | The cladding can be made from any material. In our case it is plywood. Pay attention to the marked box - this element is optional and serves more for aesthetics than for a practical purpose. |
 | Having cut out and laid the tabletop in place, we cover its ends with decorative slats. Instead, you can use aluminum or plastic pads, sold in furniture fittings or household goods stores. |
 | Now you should thoroughly sand all surfaces and corners. We run our hands over them - no joints should be felt. Next, we clean the surface from dust, treat it with an antiseptic and. After complete drying, coat all surfaces with furniture varnish. |
 | For aesthetics, we stuff decorative strips around the perimeter. They can be pre-coated with stain, which will add contrast. It is also possible to paint the planks in a color that matches the interior of the room. |
As you can see, such work will not be particularly difficult, but it will require attentiveness and accuracy from the home craftsman.
How to make a bar counter from plasterboard with your own hands: some tips for beginning craftsmen
The algorithm of actions is almost identical to the previous option. It can be used as a material for the frame, but to make the structure lighter, it is better to make it from a thin-walled metal profile. The tool you will need is the same as in the previous case, with the exception of a hammer and nails - they will be of no use here.
All work is done in the same way as making a wooden bar counter, so there is no point in going into detail about step-by-step instructions. Let’s just say that subsequently, after covering the frame with plasterboard, you can use any materials for finishing, be it simple or, or any paints.
Making a bar counter in an apartment from stone: difficulties and nuances
If we are talking about natural stone, then we cannot do without difficulties. This requires certain knowledge and skills. Today, many are replacing natural ones, which look no worse, but are much lighter and cheaper. In order to make such a bar counter, you will need to lay out a foam block support, similar to the first option described in today’s article. Afterwards, using a solution or special glue, the base is lined with stone.
You will have to order a countertop or purchase a ready-made one - it is unlikely that any of our readers have their own workshop for processing marble or granite. A marble countertop is considered the most practical - the stone is not scratched and practically does not get dirty, but any dirt that appears can be easily wiped off with a simple rag.
Important! If you decide to install a bar counter made of stone, pay attention to the floors. If a wooden covering is laid, it will have to be disassembled - the wood may not support the weight of the massive structure.
Bar counter for a small kitchen: folding design and making it yourself
If there is very little space in the kitchen, you can make a bar counter that will unfold as needed and then be removed, which will free up usable space. Now let's figure out how to make it.
There are often home craftsmen who expect to make such a structure with the narrow side adjacent to the wall. Let’s say right away that if one person sits at such a counter, then this is possible, but no more. After all, its length in this case will not be more than a meter. That is why the connection is made only along the long side. The only possible way will be in which the tabletop will not go down, but rise to the wall.
Work algorithm and required material
To make this design you will need:
- hinges along the length of the tabletop;
- stop pipe on hinges with a seat on the wall;
- mounting level;
- countertop (the lighter it is, the better).
We choose a place along the wall that is convenient for location. We measure the required height from the floor and draw a horizontal line using a mounting level, along which we screw the hinges. We fix their second part with self-tapping screws from the end of the tabletop along the long side. From below, closer to the outer edge, we attach the support pipe to the hinge. Now, having placed a level on the countertop, we find an ideal horizontal position and mark the installation location on the wall or floor under the counter seat for emphasis. Having secured it in place, the work can be considered complete.
Now that Dear Reader has understood in general terms the possibility of making bar counters of various types with your own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with photographic examples of finished structures.
Examples of bar counters in the interior of a studio, home, cafe
The examples presented below will help a novice home craftsman who is just thinking about making a bar counter to decide on a style. Also appearance designs may give rise to some thoughts. All presented bar counters are made by home craftsmen independently.
Do-it-yourself bar counters in apartments, studios and cafes:
Bar counters for the kitchen: photo examples of designs with prices
Not everyone has the time or desire to independently carry out all the work on manufacturing such structures at home. We invite you to familiarize yourself with examples of ready-made bar counters that can be purchased. All prices are as of October 2018.
Bar counter “Dorset (150)”, nut. It is characterized by minimalism, but its cost says otherwise. You can purchase a similar design for RUB 15,500.
Chivas bar counter
Beautiful bar counter "Andrea", which will suit the Retro style. The length of the structure is almost one and a half meters, width is 51 cm. It is used for the tabletop. The cost of this product is 32,700 rubles, and the master will have to assemble it himself. Although you can pay an additional 3,000 rubles for assembly. and this will be done by specialists.
Bar counter Andrea
Another option for the “Retro” style - "Gordian Classic" with dimensions 100×100×60 cm. Made from natural pine. On the inside there are shelves - a minibar. Cost – 20,500 rubles. It is possible to order an identical bar counter made of oak, but in this case the cost increases to 50,000 rubles.
Bar counter It's Wine Time! Classic 2
Looking at the cost of the presented models, you involuntarily begin to think: wouldn’t it be better to spend not too much time and make a bar counter for your apartment yourself?
Let's sum it up
A bar counter in an apartment is a relatively new trend, which means you can always come up with something unusual and original. You always want your apartment to be different from others. Remember that in such work everything is limited only by the flight of your imagination. The main thing is to have enough strength and means to bring the idea to life. After all, only in this case will the home craftsman feel satisfaction from the work done, and the bar counter he makes will not only be an aesthetic point in decorating the interior, but will also bring practical benefits in saving space.
A tabletop made from a cut of a solid log is “aerobatics”:
We hope that the information presented in today's article was useful to our dear reader. Despite the fact that we tried to convey it in as much detail as possible, you may have some questions during the review. In this case, you can ask them in the discussions below. The site editors will be happy to answer them as soon as possible.
Having made a modern renovation in your kitchen, you will think about a bar counter that will fit perfectly into the overall interior and make it more relaxed.
Location
It is suitable for both a separate kitchen and a studio apartment, in which the counter is able to zone the space without overloading it. The bar counter in apartment interiors is popular abroad, where people are known for their love of snacking, however, for Russians, eating is a kind of ritual, so the design has acquired its own characteristics.
- As a rule, the counter is located in the kitchen.
- This design cannot replace a full-fledged dining table, but is only an addition to it.
Varieties
- The classic design is based on high consoles. This type of stand has a height of 1.1–1.15 m. In order for this type of stand to fit well into the interior, it is worth choosing chairs with high seats for it.
- Combined stand, i.e. combined with a dining area. Accordingly, the bar counter will have the same height as the working surface (0.9 m) and suitable chairs should be selected for it (0.6 m). This is done mainly for convenience.
- If the structure is combined, then it will have two heights. That is, a higher-level tabletop plays the role of a bar counter, and a lower element acts as a dining table. This method is often used when zoning kitchen and living room spaces. In this case, the dining area is located on the kitchen side, and the bar area is located on the living room side. When designed correctly, this option is quite convenient.
- Another option is when the bar counter is installed in the center of the kitchen with large area. In this case, the counter is a continuation of the hob and sink. This model is not suitable for everyone, but it also finds its connoisseurs.
Arrangement of the bar
If the area of your apartment is quite large, you can set up a separate full-fledged bar, which will not belong to the kitchen. This bar has a place for washing, a refrigerator for drinks and cabinets with a variety of alcohol.
With this arrangement, the bar counter fully fulfills its original functions and is a relaxing place where you can have a drink. This option is relevant for small families living in a studio apartment. In this case, the structure can be located anywhere in the room.
Unfortunately, the range of bar counters in stores is small. As a rule, you can find accessories for it: shelves, lighting, tabletop, fittings. It is necessary to select and equip everything in such a way that the design is combined with the overall interior of the room in which it is located.
Manufacturing
In order for a bar counter to appear in your interior, you need to decide on the material for its manufacture. For this you can use: wood, glass, chipboard, natural or artificial stone, metal and combinations of these materials. Corin is mainly used to finish the tabletop, which is durable and available in a wide range of colors. You can easily make it into the desired shape that suits your space.
During manufacturing, it is not necessary to make the tabletop from the same material as the work surface.
When arranging a rack, you need to intelligently and beautifully use the space above it. Shelves and canopies for wine glasses, fruit baskets, and napkin holders can be placed here. By making such a multifunctional “tree”, you will use the space and decorate the room.
If you have a small kitchen, you don’t have to deny yourself a bar counter. In this case, it is combined with the dining area, but is made slightly higher than the table. You should not make the stand too high, as it will look out of place in a small room. The best option would be to continue the working surface or tabletop, that is, position it in the same plane as other objects.
It is necessary to prepare the following tools and material:
- level;
- perforator;
- metal profiles;
- drywall;
- dowels;
- self-tapping screws;
- putty;
- putty knife;
- dye;
- screwdriver;
- cutter;
- grater for smoothing putty;
- sealant;
- roller, brush and painting tray.
- Determine the dimensions of the structure - width, length and height of the rack. The main thing is that it is comfortable to be behind it.
- At the next stage, the metal frame is made.
- When making a frame, it is very important to give it sufficient rigidity. To do this, the corners can be made from a solid profile, for example, you cut two of its walls with metal scissors and then bend the corner 90°. You can strengthen the bend using a cutter or by tightening self-tapping screws.
- Thus, the UD guide profile is fixed to the wall and floor. Dowels are used for fastening. It is necessary to make two wall frames.
- They should be connected to each other with a transverse profile. Each profile is also fastened with a cutter.
- If it is necessary to connect two profiles perpendicularly, crabs are used.
If you want to install lighting on the bar counter in the future, then you should immediately insert the wires into the structure, leaving the leads outside. When the frame is completely ready, check it for stability. After this, you can begin attaching the drywall. The screw heads should be slightly recessed into the drywall. Afterwards it will be easier to putty them and paint the entire surface of the bar counter.
After installing the drywall, each joint must be puttied with mounting mesh. This will prevent cracks from appearing.
If, upon completion of the work, there are places where the stand does not fit well to the wall or floor, these cracks can be treated with sealant. Skirting boards are installed near the floor.
To work you will need the following set of materials:
- timber 50×100 mm;
- edged board 25×300 mm;
- MDF sheets 18 mm thick;
- baseboard;
- molding;
- self-tapping screws;
- acrylic sealant;
- dye.
The manufacturing process is as follows:
- At the first stage, a design project is developed. At the end of the article, ready-made drawings of bar counters will be presented. You can use a ready-made project or slightly modernize it to suit your individual needs. At this stage, you should decide what the length, height and width of the structure will be.
- Now, starting from finished project, you can start making the frame. To do this, mark the future frame on the wall and floor, drawing contour lines for the future location of the bar counter.
- Attach the timber to the floor and wall along the marked lines.
- It is also necessary to install support posts and cross beams for mounting the countertop. Determine the height of the counters so that the top of the countertop is level with the work area in the kitchen. In this case, each vertical stand should be installed level.
- The racks are connected to each other by transverse bars. For fastening, you can use furniture corners.
- When the frame is assembled, its cladding is performed.
- For cladding you can use MDF sheets. They will additionally give the structure the necessary rigidity.
- The tabletop is made of edged boards, which are sanded and varnished.
All wooden elements of the rack should be treated with special anti-corrosion compounds to increase moisture resistance and protect against fire.
Fill all gaps between the bar counter, wall and floor with acrylic sealant. The ends of the installed tabletop should be covered with molding.
A brick bar counter is a truly solid structure that is highly durable. If the apartment has a wooden floor, then you will have to abandon the creation of such a structure.
For construction you will need cement mortar and bricks. The design will look like a parallelepiped. Row after row of brickwork is laid, held together with mortar. For facing such a stand, red facing brick is better suited, the laying of which is carried out under jointing. As for the countertop, it can be made of natural stone, wood or MDF board.
Bar counters can also be made from natural stone. For example, polished granite is an excellent option. The surface is not afraid of moisture, sharp objects, hot and cold, and no stains remain on it.
To ensure that the installed stone countertop has a finished look, its edges are decorated with a decorative chamfer.
There are a number of advantages to using natural stone:
- strength;
- heat resistance;
- ease of care;
- a wide variety of colors and patterns;
- durability;
- resistance to various influences of reagents.
When you think about the design of the bar counter, try to keep it in moderation. That is, the structure should not be overloaded with many objects and parts. It is worth starting from three basic rules:
- Functionality. Decide what you want from a bar counter and take into account all your preferences when designing it so that in the end it turns out to be as comfortable as possible.
- Division of space. In the case when it is necessary to zone a room, the stand should fulfill this role.
- Beauty. The stand should not only be comfortable, but also aesthetically pleasing and fit perfectly into the overall design. Combination with all other pieces of furniture is a strict requirement that the design must comply with.
Photo
Blueprints
Using the provided diagrams and drawings, you can design and make a bar counter yourself:
Initially, the bar counter was a slightly modified counter. It appeared in North America at the end of the 28th century and marked the emergence of a new style, an entire cultural layer. Unlike the counter, whose main task was to create a barrier between the seller and the buyer, the bar counter significantly expanded its functions, becoming a kind of communication center, a place for eating food or strong drinks. Quite quickly, the optimal height and width, the structure of the counter were determined, and a unique bar culture was formed. It is noteworthy that in Russia this type of service was not accepted in establishments; quick food or drinks at the counter were not practiced. Counters, typical for bars in Europe or America, were not used in Russia for a long time. Meanwhile, the number of bars grew, they appeared in Europe and spread throughout the world. They exist almost unchanged to this day.
Bar counters installed in apartments have only some similarities with real counters. both in a functional sense and in appearance. These are, rather, dining tables, stylized in a certain way and installed in the kitchen. They perform other tasks and are made to create a special atmosphere in the apartment.
Why are bar counters made in an apartment?
A bar counter installed in an apartment performs, for the most part, decorative functions. Such a counter cannot fulfill its intended purpose, being, in fact, a replacement or addition to an ordinary kitchen table. Moreover, if the apartment is a studio, then the counter defines a certain boundary and separates the living room area from the kitchen. It performs the same functions in remodeled apartments, where the wall separating the kitchen from the adjacent room has been dismantled. The counter is installed on the line separating the kitchen from the room, which creates a conditional barrier between the zones and provides a visible boundary. On the side of the room, bar stools or stools are usually installed, which, in addition to fulfilling their direct duties, emphasize the difference between the inside and outside.
In addition, in a small kitchen, installing a bar counter allows you to save space and distribute it more economically, which somewhat expands the area of the room. Ordinary kitchen table, placed against the wall, allows you to use only the free sides, and the stand provides access from the outside, from the room, thereby freeing up space in the kitchen for household operations. The width of the rack provides additional space savings, since the working surface has a narrowed and elongated shape, freeing up some space.
The decorative possibilities created by the stand make the room more stylish, modern and significantly change its appearance. The room, to some extent, turns into a common room for a bar or cafe; the counter becomes a kind of center, uniting the space of the room and kitchen into a single harmonious ensemble. The kitchen area has a logical and understandable boundary, which is especially important for studio apartments.
Types of bar counters
There are quite a few options for bar counters installed in apartments. They differ in many ways. So, according to the shape of the working surface there are:
- Direct.
- Curved.
- U- or L-shaped racks.
According to the type of rack design there are:
- Single-level.
- Two-level.
By type of fastening:
- Cantilever mounted to the wall on one side (straight or L-shaped).
- Cantilever mounted to the wall on both sides (straight or U-shaped).
- Island (completely separate racks that do not have attachment to the wall).
In addition, there are racks that are only a work surface, and options with a tabletop mounted on a cabinet. The first ones look lighter, airier, and do not take up much space.
The second ones are more substantial; the cabinet has a significant capacity and allows you to store various kitchen or tableware in it.
There are a lot of design options for bar counters for the home, which allows the owner to choose the most suitable option for himself. On the Internet there are many photographs of various constructive and design solutions that can serve as the basis for your own bar counter project, created independently.
Features of installing a bar counter in a small and large kitchen
For large kitchens, installing a bar counter will not create any special problems. It is possible to create even the most space-demanding island rack, located separately and accessible from any side. The situation is more complicated with small kitchens, the area of which is limited and does not allow for extra furniture. Usually there is no free space on them; the entire space is occupied by the set. As a way out of the situation, combining the kitchen with the room is used. The wall separating these rooms is dismantled, and the counter becomes the border between the kitchen and room areas. This option frees up kitchen space, since it becomes possible to remove the kitchen table from it. In addition, people sitting at the counter are mostly in the room, which also frees up kitchen space.
Attention! You can only combine a kitchen and a room if you have electric stoves. If the house is gasified, such an association is strictly prohibited. In addition, the layout of some apartments simply does not allow expanding the kitchen. In such cases, you have to refuse to make a bar counter.
What can you make a bar counter from?
There are enough manufacturing options to give you a choice. Samples made from various materials:
- Drywall.
- Chipboard (MDF, plywood, chipboard, etc.).
- Brick.
- Wood.
There are racks made of completely exotic materials, for example, such as shown in the figure.
The abundance of options can be expanded indefinitely; there are no restrictions in this matter. Each option has its own characteristics, pros and cons; it allows you to create a specific design and emphasize the overall appearance of the room. The stand can be made the central piece of the interior, around which the rest of the composition is created, or it can be harmoniously integrated into the space of the room, without making it a too prominent, “screaming” element. Most often, they try to bring the design as close as possible to the existing kitchen set, or at least use the same countertop as the set. This makes the interior more uniform and eliminates excessive diversity, which is already enough for the kitchen area.
A common option is a combination of different materials. For example, a cabinet is created from plasterboard, and the outside is finished with clinker tiles. The stand looks as if it was made of brick, but has less weight, and the interior space of the cabinet is not reduced at all. Various options for cladding with artificial panels that imitate stone, wood texture, etc. are also used. There are a lot of options; you can use any that suits the style or capabilities of the artist.
Material selection
An important point in creating a stand with your own hands is the choice of material. A large number of possible options often creates some confusion, making it difficult to make a decision. In this case, the selection criterion should be your own capabilities and skills. If you have experience working with wood, then it is best to use it and prefer wood. For those who have worked with drywall, this material would be the best choice, etc.
At the same time, we must remember to match the appearance of the counter with the kitchen unit or the interior of the room, if the counter faces one side of it. The design can be made in accordance with one or another option, but you can also combine them, for example, using a tabletop like a set, and finishing the cabinet in the style of the walls or room furnishings.
An equally important criterion for choosing a material is its cost. No one needs excessive expenses, so it is not advisable to use too expensive or exotic materials. It should be borne in mind that the bar counter itself is a rather prominent piece of furniture, so excessive decoration of it with elite materials can cause the opposite effect of inconsistency of furnishings.
Creating a Project
Before you start purchasing materials, you need to think carefully and in detail about how to make a bar counter with your own hands. Significant assistance in this matter will be provided by the creation of a project or working drawing that displays all dimensions, materials, parts and stages of construction of the product. The project will help eliminate mistakes, purchase a sufficient amount of material, cut it correctly and connect it. No less important is the method of attachment to the floor and wall, which must also be thought out in advance and displayed in the working drawing. It does not have to be drawn up according to all the rules of GOST, but, in any case, the project should be well read and understandable the first time not only by the author, but also by other people. An unforeseen situation may arise in your work when you will have to bring in a specialist to help. You will have to explain your idea to him, and then the project will be able to significantly simplify the task.
Bar counter height
This parameter is important, since height is one of the main features that distinguishes a bar counter from a table. The fact is that the stand is optimized for a person standing, and not for someone sitting on a chair. Therefore, bar stools or chairs have much greater height than usual. The average height of the racks is in the range of 1.1-1.3 m, although there are also lower models - from 0.75 m. Most often, such samples are included in kitchen sets and represent a stylized dining table.
The choice of height is the prerogative of the owner; it is not customary to give any advice in this case. However, when choosing the height of the stand, you should take into account the geometric proportions of the product so that the appearance is a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing sight. It is recommended to apply the rule of the “golden ratio”, which makes the stance visually proportional and harmonious, correct.
Manufacturing procedure
Let's consider several options for making a bar counter yourself from various materials.
How to make a bar counter from a countertop
This option is the simplest, accessible to everyone. To make it, you will need a piece of countertop from a kitchen set, a pair of brackets for cantilever mounting to the wall, and a metal support for the free end of the countertop. Installation is carried out in stages:
Attachment points for fasteners for the tabletop are marked on the wall. Their height must correspond to the height of the metal support, otherwise the surface will not be horizontal.
The free end of the tabletop is cut into an oval shape (or at least the corners are rounded). Edging material is glued to the end part, and the edges are cleaned with fine sandpaper.
The metal support is attached to the tabletop. After this, the tabletop is fixed on the wall, then, aligning the support with a plumb line or building level, it is attached to the floor.
The resulting counter is more of a console dining table, but this design has its advantages - it looks light and does not overload the kitchen space.
How to make a bar counter from plasterboard
This material has its own set of components that allow you to create a supporting structure of almost any degree of complexity. Smooth curved lines or non-rectangular shapes of the stand are possible. In this regard, the material is very promising and allows you to create fancy designs to suit every taste. In addition, you can use only metal guides, and the created structure can be sheathed with other materials, for example, fiberboard. This option allows you to sheathe curved surfaces without “steps”.
The supporting structure is created according to the design data. The frame is assembled according to the rules for working with guides for gypsum boards. FOR work you will need:
- Metal scissors.
- Electric drill or screwdriver.
- Pliers.
- Self-tapping screws with a tip for a drill 10 mm long for assembling the structure.
To speed up the work, all frame parts are pre-cut to length. All assembly areas are cut out in the right places, and the structure is assembled with self-tapping screws. The finished frame is installed on the floor and attached to it and to the wall. If the shape of the support is complex, then sometimes it is more convenient to first sheathe the frame from the inside, then install it in place, fix it, and then sheathe it from the outside.
On the kitchen side, there is usually either an open shelf or a cabinet closed with doors. If you don’t want to bother with the hinges or the interior lining, then you can make a closed, blind tube that serves only as a base for the tabletop.
If necessary, the kit includes a cornice or canopy. A stand with a visor looks more collected, attractive and is the most common option. Various accessories for hanging wine glasses, lighting, and other hanging elements are installed on it. The canopy is attached in a cantilever manner to the wall, and the free end rests on a stand made of a bar pipe installed on the tabletop. To install the bar pipe, special fasteners are used, which are purchased along with it. The diameter of the pipe is selected independently, guided by the proportions of the rack.
The finished frame is covered with plasterboard. The corners are reinforced with a special perforated metal corner or nylon mesh, which are subsequently hidden under a layer of putty. The entire surface is sanded first with coarser, then fine sandpaper and painted or wallpapered to match the decoration of the walls of the room.
The table top is installed last (before installing the canopy). It is attached to the inside of the cabinet on the corners or screwed onto self-tapping screws through metal guides.
Bar counter made of wood
Creating a wooden bar counter takes place in several stages:
- Assembling the cabinet. To do this, it is necessary to connect a frame of wooden blocks according to the working drawing, and then sheathe the outside with clapboard, boards, chipboard, plywood or other materials.
- A cabinet made from panels similar to the type of assembly of interior doors looks good, but this requires the presence of many woodworking machines, which is not available to everyone.
- Sheathing. The most common option is cladding with clapboard, slats or planed boards. For fastening, thin finishing nails, special clamps for lining, and thin screws are used.
- Cabinet finishing. For this, stain and varnish, paint or other finishing materials are used. The most preferred material is water-soluble parquet varnish. It is very durable, odorless, dries quickly enough and protects the cabinet well from external influences.
Bar counter made of laminated chipboard
To assemble a stand made of chipboard you will need the following tools:
- Hand power saw or jigsaw.
- Electric drill, screwdriver.
- Square, ruler, pencil.
- Fastening elements, fittings, edge material.
- Electric iron.
Using laminated chipboard to create a supporting cabinet greatly facilitates finishing and does not require the creation of a frame, since the entire structure is self-supporting. For assembly you will need:
- Cut laminated chipboard into assembly parts according to the project.
- Apply edging material. The easiest way to do this is with an iron set at a temperature slightly above medium. The edge needs a pre-applied adhesive layer. After gluing, the excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife, the corner is lightly sanded with fine sandpaper so as not to scratch the front side of the chipboard.
- The cabinet is assembled using confirmat, corners or furniture ties. The choice of fasteners depends on the availability of tools and skills in working with chipboard. The simplest connection option is corners, the most complex is furniture ties.
- Installation of the assembled cabinet can be done without attaching it to the wall, only to the floor. Since the cabinet itself is quite stable, it is not necessary to attach it to the wall, although it all depends on the size. A tall but shallow rack will need as much support as possible, which may require wall mounting.
- The canopy is assembled in the following order: the lid (bottom) is cut out according to the shape of the tabletop. Then the side parts are attached to it, visually increasing the thickness of the cornice and hiding the wires from the backlight. Holes for lamps are drilled. Fastening elements for wall mounting are attached.
- The tabletop is installed on the corners from the inside of the cabinet. The visor is mounted on the wall and rests on a stand made of a bar pipe mounted on special mounts. Wires for lighting can be routed along the wall or inside a pipe support.
Creating a bar counter with your own hands allows you to change the appearance of your apartment, decorate the interior with a stylish and practical element, and to some extent expand the kitchen area. All creation work can be done from relatively inexpensive materials, but if desired, it is possible to use the most expensive and high-quality materials, parts and accessories. The work of creating a stand is not particularly difficult, but it requires care and some skills so that the result can please the owner and guests of the house.
Once upon a time, bar counters were used only for their intended purpose: to sit down and have a drink in a drinking establishment. Somehow they migrated to the kitchen and took root there. It turned out to be a very convenient detail, especially since it has undergone noticeable changes and the modern bar counter for the kitchen has a varied design. Its options may vary greatly in design and style, and functional purpose it may be different for them too.
Purpose and types
If the kitchen area allows, a bar counter is placed in the kitchen for its intended purpose: to sit down for a cup of coffee or something stronger, or to have a snack. Then its “equipment” is appropriate: holders for glasses, wine glasses, glasses, next to it is a shelf/holder for juices, bottles, etc. They place it with one edge resting on a wall or the edge of a kitchen unit, sometimes they place it in the form of a frame - in the middle of a free zone.
Bar counter in a large kitchen
In small kitchens it is often multifunctional. It can also be used as a divider into zones - dining room and kitchen; in very small areas it is often used as a dining table. Moreover, it can be located non-standardly - against the wall.
Bar counter along the wall
In medium-sized kitchens - 10-12 meters - it is often made in the form of a peninsula - a small protrusion on the side. In order to make more efficient use of space, the space under the countertop is used for shelves or a cabinet. This design is very simple - the bar top is often supported by several pieces of straight or inclined pipes fixed to the cabinet table.
Bar counter in the kitchen - peninsula
Such multi-stage kitchens have recently become popular: it is more convenient to perform different operations in the kitchen on surfaces with different heights.
Two surfaces one above the other
The surface of the stand is slightly shifted relative to the table
But, nevertheless, more often a bar counter for the kitchen is present in studio apartments to delimit two zones: the kitchen from the living room or from the hallway - who has what is combined. Moreover, it is often a continuation of the desktop island or peninsula.
Bar counter for the kitchen as a continuation of the island table
They also make it in the form of a partition. In this case, the base is most often made of plasterboard, and a surface is “attached” to it - from above or to the side.
Bar counter-partition made of plasterboard
This option is easy to do
The base can also be brick
In general, there are many options, variations and different types. You adapt the idea that you like to your conditions, and you can begin to implement it.
Dimensions and dimensions
There are no strict rules in this regard. There are some recommendations that are violated in about half of the cases. The recommendations relate only to the height and width of the tabletop:
- The height of the bar counter is usually 1.1-1.2 meters. Then special high chairs are placed next to her.
- The width is at least 30 cm, optimally 50-60 cm. You shouldn’t go less than 30 cm: even a small plate on such a tabletop will be in danger. And it’s just inconvenient: you can’t put your elbows down, you can’t really lean on your elbows.
The length, shape, number and shape of the legs are all at your discretion. Speaking of legs. The traditional counters that were in drinking establishments are a table top on a cabinet. But for a kitchen, for some reason, a tabletop with one pipe from floor to ceiling is considered a “classic”.
Something like this counter is considered a classic in kitchen sets
By the way, in this form it is practically not used anymore. More functional analogues with cabinets and cabinets predominate.
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Bar counter for the kitchen: stages, manufacturing methods, photo reports
The simplest option to implement is the classic one: a tabletop attached with one edge to a wall or furniture, and the other resting on a pipe. There are options with the tabletop:
- Make it from a wide board, preferably not coniferous - their wood is too soft.
- Order from the same company that made the kitchen set. If you bought a ready-made one, you will have to look for similar material from a photo or carry a small spare part with you to workshops to demonstrate what you need.
- Make it out of thick plywood, then decorate it with something - stick on plastic, tiles, mosaics.
Everything else is better to choose in a store that sells furniture fittings. The choice is very wide, and the range of prices is absolutely amazing. For example, a pipe of the same diameter can cost three times more. But this difference is not without reason. With cheap Chinese pipes/grids/baskets, the chrome plating begins to flake off after some time. German fittings have a very high price tag, but have a lifetime guarantee; Poles are in the middle in both price and quality. The choice is yours.
Homemade bar counter for the kitchen from a board
The photo above shows a homemade bar counter made from a thick board. It rests on one side on a shelf attached to the wall (also made of inch boards). The second support is a traditional pipe. A hole of suitable diameter is drilled in the body of the tabletop for the pipe. A “fastening ring” stop attachment is installed on the pipe under the table top, and the hole is closed on top with a decorative ring. There is also a “thrust bearing” or universal fastening of the pipe to the floor and ceiling, as well as various holders and shelves for it.
If the tabletop is attached directly to the wall, corners are usually used for these purposes. You can take reinforced ones, and choose the color based on the finish. But this type The fastener is installed so that it is not visible - stepping back from the edge a few centimeters. You can put several small corners, or one solid one.
Shelf holders can be placed under the tabletop
If you decide to make a bar counter in the kitchen along the wall, you can use decorative brackets for shelves. Their load-bearing capacity should be enough for a tabletop, especially since you can put several of them. An example of assembling a bar counter of a simple design with a pipe in the photo below.
Photo report No. 1: homemade stand made from tabletop and pipe
The tabletop was cut out from a window sill (solid wood), the edge was rounded, sanded, tinted and varnished. Spare parts - bar leg, brackets and a fixation to the floor - were purchased in the furniture fittings department.
This is the original data
We screw the stop to the tabletop and the corners to the edge. Everything sits on self-tapping screws with a flat head. The work takes about 7 minutes.
The main part is assembled
Having placed the assembled stand against the wall, mark on the wall the places where dowels need to be installed. We trace the pipe on the floor with a marker: we will set the thrust bearing according to this mark. Using the marks, we mount the support for the rack and install dowels in the wall.
Preparatory part
We put the stand in place and secure it with screws. All. Ready.
A simple bar counter assembled with your own hands
Bar counters with shelves
If you don’t like the design with the pipe, you can do without it, but you will have to remove the upper part, which is located under the ceiling. Instead of a leg, for example, you can make the same shelf as near the wall. The look will immediately become more dynamic and modern.
Sketches of easy-to-make bar counters
And in general, the entire structure can be assembled from wide boards, joining them at right angles. Looking at the photo below, you will understand what we are talking about.
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Bar counter for a kitchen in a modern style (for minimalism and high-tech too)
Broken lines generally fit better into modern interiors. If the kitchen is in the style of minimalism or high-tech, then it is difficult to fit the classics there, but something consisting of broken lines will look very good (several sketches in the picture below).
Bar counters for kitchens in modern style
A slightly more traditional version is shown in the photo. This didn't make him any less interesting. A non-standard approach, even in small doses, significantly changes perception.
Bar drain-table option
Bar counter on base
We considered all these options without reason. But the tabletop can be attached to some kind of cabinet. If the tabletop is located exactly above the table surface, we take a pipe and standard fasteners to horizontal surfaces. If, as in this case, the surface of the bar counter is offset, there is a special inclined fastener.
Attaching the tabletop to the cabinet is easy and simple
You can make a cabinet yourself. Actually, the main thing is to assemble the frame. It can be covered with furniture plywood or some other finishing material - it depends on the style of your kitchen. The frame can be made from wooden (dry) slats, or you can weld a metal corner.
You can dance on this stand
An alternative is to assemble it from plasterboard profiles and sheathe it with it or with gypsum plasterboard. Another option is to build a brick base. But this is if the load-bearing capacity of the floor allows.
Loft style
With a plasterboard base: photo report No. 2
Often a plasterboard base is chosen. The material is inexpensive, the technology has been tested, the mechanics are familiar, and the result is at least good. There is no news regarding the order of work: we are assembling the frame. In this case, wooden blocks were used, but the same can be done using profiles.
Assembled frame
The main thing is to maintain vertical and horizontal planes, place the racks exactly at 90°. Everything is checked with a good building level; it is better to monitor verticality with a plumb line: it has no error. When the frame is assembled, it is sheathed on both sides with plasterboard or gypsum board.
Plasterboard sheets mounted
We fill the marks from the screws, corners and joints with putty. Then it depends on the chosen type of finish: some require putty (painting with water-based emulsion), others do not. In our case, textured paint was chosen; it is applied in a thick layer, and can be applied directly to drywall.
Covered with textured paint
All that remains is to install the tabletop on the bar counter. Choose which one matches the rest of the furniture in your kitchen.
Photo report No. 3: Bar counter with sink
This was the first experience in creating furniture (and anything worthwhile in general) with my own hands; as a result, some design flaws were made. The design was not the most successful, although there is no arguing about tastes.
Source materials:
- inexpensive countertops bought on sale;
- remnants of a laminated chipboard cabinet;
- bars;
- a couple of additional doors purchased;
- plumbing filling: sink, siphon, mixer and the required pipes, hoses, fittings.
Tabletops are folded in the letter “L”, connected by steel plates, sidewalls are attached
Installing and replacing a kitchen faucet is described here.
Tabletops are laid out face down on the floor. They are connected in the shape of the letter “L” using glue, which coats the ends and a steel strip with perforations into which the screws are screwed. The strip, of course, is fixed at the bottom.
The sides were supposed to be refined (presumably with laminate), so the remains available on the farm were used - an old door and a piece of a cabinet. They are screwed using corners, aligned along the edge of the tabletops. And this is the first mistake. And visually such a cabinet looks heavy, and it’s uncomfortable to sit on. The sides must be moved from the edge by at least 10 cm.
After the sides were installed, the cabinet was turned over and placed in its permanent place. All other work was carried out on site. A hole for the sink was cut, the plumbing was installed and connected.
