Air conditioner installation step by step instructions. Self-installation of air conditioning. Determining the installation location of the indoor unit

So your dream has come true - you now have an air conditioner in your house, now you won’t be afraid of the heat in the summer and the dampness in the room in the off-season, when the heating has not yet been turned on, and there are prolonged rains outside. Immediately after installation, the air conditioner is connected to the electrical network - it must be carried out strictly according to the diagrams indicated on the internal covers of the modules. The operating instructions also contain recommendations for making connections and specify the basic requirements for electrical network installation locations.

It must be remembered that electrical diagram connecting an air conditioner used in everyday life differs significantly from the similar connection of semi-industrial models that are installed in offices. Pets only have single-phase connection.

In practice, there are two main ways to connect a split system:

• direct connection via socket;
• separate wiring to the electrical panel.

The first option is ideal for all household devices - they are everywhere put into operation only in this way. Connecting any air conditioning system is carried out in several steps, which must be strictly followed when you decide to do everything yourself.

Connection diagram of the air conditioner to the electrical network

The figure shows a diagram of connecting the air conditioner to the electrical network, as well as various connections between the system modules; in addition, you will definitely need a circuit diagram of the air conditioner of the purchased model.

First way

Before you begin connecting the product to the network, you must install cables from the evaporator to the outdoor module:

• we lay the wire that will connect the two blocks;
• we draw a separate line to the electrical panel for powerful systems, which includes a cable and an overload protection circuit breaker;
• Medium power devices are connected directly through an ordinary outlet.

The last option for connecting an air conditioner is used in certain cases:

• the power of the product is low;
• window or mobile class climate system;
• the apartment has a network of sufficient power;
• temporary location of the unit;
• No other household appliances should be connected to this line.

Important! To connect the indoor unit, you need to use reinforced sockets and install a circuit breaker nearby.

It must be taken into account that the air conditioner operates in different modes, its power varies from minimum to maximum, so separate protection must be installed on the connection line.

Before sending a product for sale, each manufacturer attaches instructions to it, which include:

• product operation diagram;
• connection diagram - general;
• electrical diagram for connecting the external and internal units.

There is similar information on the surface of the case remote block and the evaporator cover, but it is applied from the inside. This greatly simplifies the independent connection of any air conditioning system at home.

Under the front panel of the evaporator there is a special box where the terminals for connecting wiring- this air conditioner unit or split system is always installed indoors.

The wires from the evaporator are connected to the contacts of the outdoor unit, guided by the numbering; the free wires are carefully insulated with special tape. The schematic diagram will help you understand everything correctly. Before connecting the air conditioning system, you must check insulation of each core so that the normal operation of the air conditioner is not interrupted by a short circuit.

Important! If the system diagram is unclear to you and you have no practice in working with electricity, then it is better not to try to connect the split system yourself, but call a professional.

There are reasons that do not allow connecting any air conditioning system to the electrical network of an apartment or country house:

• old wiring where aluminum wire was used;
• the cross-section of the wires is too small - they will not withstand the load;
• the condition of the wiring requires its urgent replacement;
• There is no high-quality grounding or basic protection against voltage surges.

Air conditioning systems are rather delicate devices, so they should only be connected to working electrical network so as not to spend the family budget on very expensive repairs.

Second way

Experts advise using the most reliable and safe option for connecting an air conditioner - an individual cable, which ensures stable operation of the device. If you install separate protection - an RCD (residual current device), it will protect the product from any voltage drop or network overload, and an individual line will allow you to place system modules anywhere.

Standard requirements for the components of a separate electrical line:

• Necessarily presence of RCD or AZO(residual circuit breaker);
• all conductors must be made of copper;
• the diameter of the wire must correspond to the size prescribed by the manufacturer;
• equip separate grounding for the entire line.

Electrical harnesses are passed into a protective hose, then placed in a specially designed plastic box so as not to violate the integrity of the walls. Watch how the professionals make the connection in this special video:

Work algorithm

When a home master is confident in his abilities and knows perfectly well how various household appliances are connected, he can safely begin working according to a fairly simple scheme.

1. We select the set of necessary tools and the necessary materials.
2. We study the schemes proposed by the manufacturer.
3. We lay the cables to connect the terminals of the external unit to the similar connectors of the air conditioner evaporator.
4. We check the proper operation of all components of the product.

It does not depend on the design of the product where the cable for connecting to the outlet comes from - from the evaporator or the external module.

Choosing an outlet

A home outlet must meet certain requirements:

• Availability is welcome differentiated relay or reliable grounding;
• it must fully meet all the requirements and parameters drawn up by the manufacturers, according to the appendices in the instructions for using the split system;
• if the socket is supplied with electricity using aluminum wires, it must be replaced with copper analogues with a normal cross-section;
• it must be connected to the panel via a circuit breaker.

Modern standard euro sockets perfect for connection household appliances special power, but all work on connecting the air conditioner must be performed by a specialist with the appropriate approval, otherwise the product warranty will be void. If you moved to a new place and decided to install a product that was already working, especially since you carried out the dismantling yourself, then follow the recommendations and do everything carefully.

Selecting the wire

To correctly connect the air conditioner with your own hands, you must use a wire only of the cross-section specified by the manufacturer individually for each model. Household products require the use of a cross-section within the range of 1.5-2.5 square (mm 2), and the current strength will correspondingly be up to 18 amperes or more.

If the distance between the system and the electrical panel is up to 10 m, then a cross-section of 1.5 mm 2 is suitable, when the distance is greater, then the cross-section increases.

For efficient work climate systems are used copper wires: for single-phase connection - 3 wires, for three-phase version - 5 wires.

Wires are not laid near heating system and gas supply pipes; the standard distance between communications is no closer than a meter. Electrical harnesses, assembled in a protective corrugation, are placed in grooves and secured with special clamps.

When laying communications using ducts, glue and screws are used to secure the wiring. When they do hidden wiring, then the cables are secured in the grooves with special clamps, and then plastered with construction plaster so that they can be quickly opened in case of emergency.

Connecting the evaporator

In principle, the method for connecting system modules is identical, with the exception of minor nuances, so we present a detailed method for connecting the internal module, and the external one - by analogy with it.

After completing the connection of both modules, check again correct connection, checking the diagrams, only after a scrupulous check is a trial and short-term switching on of the air conditioner performed.

In conclusion, I would like to warn all users once again: electricity does not forgive mistakes and inaccuracies, so when connecting yourself, be adequate with your skills, so that later you do not have to worry about extinguishing the wiring and repairing expensive climate control equipment.

This article will focus on the outdoor unit. The indoor unit of the air conditioner, as you know, is located indoors. It is the second component of the split system.

The operating principle of a device such as an outdoor air conditioner unit is based on the absorption of heat during evaporation and its release during condensation. The system is usually filled with freon. When the unit is operating for cooling, the liquid begins to circulate throughout the indoor unit, after which it evaporates and then settles in the outer part.

To heat the room, the refrigerant evaporates in the external module, and it settles as condensation inside.

With the help of a compressor, the coolant transitions from one state to another by creating a difference in pressure in the apparatus. At the same time, the system transfers three times more electricity. What are air conditioners equipped with in this case? The external units of split systems are complemented by an internal structure.

Design features of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

For example, let’s take split air conditioners, the outdoor unit of which consists of several parts:

• Compressor. Its function is to compress freon and maintain its movement along the refrigeration circuit. The compressor can be based on a piston or a scroll-type spiral. Piston models are not as expensive, but they are less reliable, especially when low temperatures ah the outside air.
• Four-way valve, which is mounted in reversible models of air conditioners (hot and cold modes). In heating mode, this valve changes the direction of freon flow. In this case, the indoor and outdoor units seem to change their functions: the indoor unit provides heating, and the outdoor unit provides cooling.
• Control board. This part is present only in inverter-type units. In other configurations, all electronics are located in the indoor unit, since changes in temperature and humidity can damage the operation of electronic components.
• A fan that provides air flow around the condenser. In models in the low-cost segment, it has one rotation speed. Such a unit operates stably within a single temperature range supplied from outside. In expensive models, the fan speed is designed for a wide range of temperatures. The fan, as a rule, has 2-3 speed modes and their smooth regulation.
• Radiator. It provides cooling and condensation of freon. The air flow blown through the condenser is heated.
• Freon system filter. The part is located in front of the inlet of the compressor device and serves to protect it from copper chips and other small particles that may get into the air conditioner during its installation. If the installation is not carried out properly, and during the work an excessive amount of dirt gets into the device, then the filter will be powerless in this case.
• Connections on fittings. Copper pipes are connected to them, which serve as connections between the outdoor and indoor units.
• Quick release cover for protection. It covers the connections on the fittings and the terminal block. The latter is used to connect electrical cables. In some configurations, the protective cover covers only the terminal block, while the connections on the fittings are located outside.

Installation of a split system

Every year in our country many household wall, ceiling and window split systems are purchased. Large companies, in addition to selling units, offer installation services. It should be noted that installation has its own nuances, failure to comply with which leads to a malfunction of the unit.

Basic installation rules

Many people wonder how to install the outdoor air conditioner unit correctly.

• The first, main point. The outdoor unit of the split system must be mounted in the outer part of the home, which will provide access to the open air cooling radiator. This means that if the unit is installed on the air conditioner owner must make sure that there is a window there. It will ensure the flow of air during operation of the unit. If the device is cooled in a closed space, this will lead to overheating. While the new temperature sensor is functioning, it will notify you that the air conditioner will automatically turn off until the outdoor unit cools down. At high temperature The device will only function for 5 minutes and will take half an hour to cool down when turned off. If it fails, the outdoor unit will simply overheat and burn out. Repairing the unit in this case will not be cheap. Sometimes it is even more profitable to buy a new air conditioner.
• Second important point. To diagnose a split system, there is also a need to charge the device with refrigerant. During service, the technician must have easy access to the valves, which are located on the side of the outdoor unit (usually on the left side). The valves are closed with plastic caps. If it is impossible to reach the valves, then you will have to call a professional climber.
• The outdoor unit of the air conditioner should not be noisy at night. The maximum permissible value is 32 dB.
• It is necessary to organize optimal drainage of condensate so that it does not fall on the walls of the building, the canopy of the entrance and passers-by.
• The strength of the walls must be taken into account. The wall must withstand a load of several tens of kilograms. It is contraindicated to mount the unit to walls based on aerated concrete, to the external cladding of the home and to the insulating layer.
• Brackets with a block must be provided with the most reliable base and fastening.
• To avoid overheating of the compressor device, the minimum distance from the wall to the outdoor unit must be at least 10 cm. Nothing should interfere with normal airflow.
• Strictly not allowed a large number of bends in the copper pipeline, since the kinks interfere with the full pumping of freon by the compressor.
• The maximum length of the pipeline between the split system modules should not be higher than the length specified by the manufacturer. Otherwise, the level of operational efficiency is noticeably reduced.
• Avoid direct sunlight on the rear of the unit. Therefore, there should not be a very large distance from the outer wall to the external unit.
• It is advisable to provide protection against moisture penetration.

Compliance with all installation existing rules will allow the unit to function for a long time without failures.

Selecting a location for the outdoor unit

With standard installation, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is fixed under the window slightly below the level of the window sill or on the side of the window, without affecting the territory of the neighbors’ apartment.

There are also not quite generally accepted options for the location of the external device. If the permissible route length and height difference allow, then installation is carried out on the roof or in the attic.

Many people install outdoor air conditioning units on the façade of a balcony or loggia. It can also be installed inside them, provided there is no glazing.

Those who live in private houses or on the ground floor often install the unit under the loggia, thereby protecting it from the adverse effects of precipitation and without disturbing the appearance of the building.

Particular attention should be paid to installing an external unit in the basement. Such a project is possible with increased route dimensions and height differences. If the basement has heating, then the air conditioner will provide not only cooling, but also heating on frosty days.

For this purpose, it is not at all necessary to resort to installing a winter kit on the device or to purchase a system with a wide temperature range, since installed in the basement, it will not be exposed to very low temperatures. The main thing in this case is to ensure normal air circulation to avoid overheating of the heat exchanger.

In summer the basement is cool, so it has its own pole. In this position, the operation of the external module will have a high efficiency index, since the air in the basement is colder than outside air.

What should the outdoor unit be mounted on?

When installing, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner must be secured. The standard form of fastening involves the use of brackets, which consist of two welded strips. They are made, as a rule, from an ordinary profile with different sections. They are equipped with two holes for mounting the air conditioner itself. Such elements can withstand heavy loads that exceed the weight of an average block by several times.

Air conditioners located on stands

Installation of outdoor air conditioner units on the roof, floor or ground involves the use of special stands for the outdoor unit of the unit. They are made of metal that is powder coated. The stands are attached to the surface by means of welded holes (facade fasteners on frames). They have sliding slats that can be adjusted to any size of unit. Typically the stand can support more than 250 kg, which is the weight of a very large industrial air conditioner.

Repair work

As a rule, the breakdown of the outdoor unit is caused by a failure of the mechanics of the device or its electronic system.

The first group includes malfunctions of the refrigeration module, and the second group includes malfunctions in the control board and disturbances in the electrical circuit.

Mechanical breakdowns

These include the following malfunctions:

• the outdoor unit of the air conditioner is frozen;
• noise and vibration uncharacteristic for operation appeared;
• the heat exchanger is not blown sufficiently;
• Oil smudges appeared on the boards.

There are other reasons for freezing of the outdoor module, and this happens not only in winter, but also in summer.

The system may contain excess refrigerant, air, or moisture. Perhaps the capillary tubes are clogged or the device needs preventative cleaning (filters are replaced, panels of both units are washed, dirty deposits are removed from the fan and heat exchanger).

It is common to encounter incorrect lengths of copper piping. There may also be a shortage or increased content of freon.

Electronics problems

An equally serious problem is a malfunction of the control board. Usually it is signaled by special codes and LED lamps. They are installed on the body of the indoor unit.

When the board burns out, the outdoor unit may begin to smoke. Although this phenomenon, as a rule, indicates a burnout of the electric motor, compressor or fan. If the outdoor unit smokes when heated in winter, then this may not be a signal of fire, but of defrosting of the heat exchanger. In this case, steam may be mistaken for smoke.

Regardless of the severity of the breakdown, you must immediately disconnect the device from the power supply and contact a repair service.

Outdoor unit models

Models of outdoor units are presented by different companies. The segment has devices of various sizes and capacities. Each unit has its own technological features. The size of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner may also vary. For example, consider two models from different manufacturers.

Model Mitsubishi Electric MXZ-8B140VA

Air conditioner outdoor unit Mitsubishi Electric MXZ-8B140VA is produced by the world famous Japanese company. It is designed for cooling and heating air in rooms with an area of ​​140 square meters. m. This is an outdoor module of a multi-zone air conditioning system with inverter-type regulation. The unit has a high level of performance.

Indoor units in this configuration operate independently of each other, with the exception of simultaneous cooling and heating operation.

System Features

The outdoor unit of the Mitsubishi air conditioner has:

• cooling mode;
• drainage;
• air ventilation;
• mode on an automatic basis.

The outdoor unit has a modern, elegant design.

The module can serve from 2 to 8 indoor units of various configurations, which form the basis of a multi-zone split system.

Inverter performance control guarantees that the unit quickly reaches the desired mode and subsequently slows down the compressor rotation speed. This makes it possible to save energy without compromising the quality of the unit.

The device is inherent low level noise and vibration. It uses optimized stabilizers to ensure even and smooth distribution. air masses. This allows you to eliminate the contact of air with the fan, and, therefore, achieve a reduction in noise during operation.

The air conditioner has a high level of efficiency when operating in cooling mode. This function is applicable for special conditions of use. For example, to cool a room in winter.

The main indicator of the unit is its high level of energy efficiency, achieved by smooth regulation of the heat exchanger.

Outdoor unit model from Daikin manufacturer

It is distinguished by the following indicators:

• The Daikin RXYQ-T outdoor unit has a special refrigerant temperature control circuit that allows you to customize the VRV. This provides maximum convenience and also improves seasonal efficiency.
• The use of variable refrigerant temperatures makes it possible to increase seasonal efficiency by up to 28%.
• A high level of comfort, absence of cold drafts at low outlet air temperatures is ensured through the use of variable refrigerant temperature and inverter technology.
• The VRV configuration device carries out precise settings and commissioning.
• An integrated circuit in the room temperature control system ensures the supply of fresh air. The system is also distinguished by very simple installation, automatic refueling and testing.
• The presence of a display on the outdoor unit allows you to obtain information about possible malfunctions in the operation of the unit, check its parameters and functionality.
• The high static pressure makes it possible to install the outdoor unit indoors.
• A wide segment of outdoor units makes it possible to connect stylish units from the Daikin Emura, Nexura, etc. household series.
• The flexibility of installing the system is ensured by the length of the routes (the maximum sum is up to 1000 m).
• The height difference between the internal modules has been increased to 30 m, which makes the range of application of the unit wider.
• The system is being put into operation in stages.

Most residents of our vast Motherland, one way or another, face the problem of summer heat! Each of us understands that the best salvation from the heat in the apartment is a split system. The process of purchasing it is accompanied by two main questions - where to install the air conditioner in the apartment and? Today I will tell you about the most successful options for the location of the air conditioner.

When we are just planning to purchase a “split”, many have no idea where in the apartment it should be located. For the first time, we think about where it is even possible to place the device so that it works correctly and efficiently. Many people have two versions in their heads:

• the first is the installation of one large air conditioner for the entire apartment (usually somewhere in the corridor);
• the second version is the installation of one or more split systems in certain rooms.

I stick to the second option, when the “split” is calculated for one room. And it’s even better when its power takes into account a small margin. Then the neighboring rooms can be partially cooled.

Location of several air conditioners in the main rooms

This split placement option has 3 important advantages:

1. In the desired room (with the doors closed) the temperature that is comfortable for you will be most accurately maintained. Precisely adjusting the temperature during sleep is VERY IMPORTANT for health, and not just for comfort.
2. If “condensers” (with) are installed in the main rooms, then the entire apartment (including the corridor) will be provided with coolness, when needed.
3. During the day, only those rooms in which you spend most of your time will be cooled. There is no point in “freezing” the entire apartment when you spend the whole day in one room. For example, when welcoming guests, you can provide the entire apartment with coolness, and at night maintain the temperature only in the bedrooms.

Installation of one large air conditioner in the hallway

The option of installing an air conditioner in the hallway also has the right to life! The main advantage of this installation is that it eliminates the impact of direct cold flow on people. But the BIG downside is that it will be difficult to get the "correct" temperature in individual rooms (accurate temperature is very important for health). Each case of such installation must be considered separately. But please note that:

• choose the correct power of the device;
• take care of the reliable removal of condensate (discharge of drainage into the sewer has its own characteristics);
• supply power for a powerful air conditioner from the switchboard (power supply options from sockets are no longer suitable);
• take into account the weight of the blocks during installation;
• take into account the entire “route”.

Basic rules when choosing a location for the air conditioner

In living rooms there are places where a person spends most of the time. Let's call them “rest zones” of a person. These include primarily:

We understand perfectly well that in most apartments it is difficult to find a place where the “conder” will not affect a person’s “rest zone”. But in any layout there is the most “harmless” position of the device.

There is one myth - some people imagine that the cold is concentrated at the location of the air conditioner (they say that the coolness will only be in front of the unit or in the place where it “blows”). That's bullshit! If the doors and windows of the room are closed, the temperature will be distributed evenly throughout the room! No matter where in the room there is an internal split unit. Only if the doors are open can you feel that the air-conditioned room is cooler than the hallway.

All air conditioners have the ability to adjust the direction of air flow. But you must understand that air is primarily a gas! It will not “fly” like a stone to where you directed it (where you turned the blinds). In any case, the flow of cold air will “dissipate” throughout the room. OF COURSE, the movement of cold air will be felt stronger directly opposite the block.

If you need coolness to also flow into the corridor, then there is no need to place the block opposite the door. At open door the coolness will “leave” from the room in any case. The location of the air conditioner strictly opposite the door can “play” only to a small extent (the entire air flow will not fly like a solid object in one direction).

Where is it better to install an air conditioner in a two-room apartment?

It's not uncommon to hear this question. I have already partially answered by expressing my opinion. Namely, I said that it is more effective to install an air conditioner in a specific room, and not in the corridor. So, in which rooms is it better to install the device? I will give several recommendations with which you can determine the placement of blocks for a specific case.

A “kopeck piece” often consists of three “living” rooms – a living room, a bedroom and a kitchen. For most of us, an apartment is primarily a place to relax. If this is so, then we determine where we rest and sleep most. I believe that the bedroom should have priority in this regard. Since any person spends almost a third of his life sleeping! If the apartment is also a place of work, then we determine for ourselves where we spend the most time.

We calculate the second priority room using the same principle. If you find it difficult to choose, then I suggest choosing the living room (where we also relax a lot).

After we have determined the priorities for the rooms, WE CONSIDER YOUR FINANCIAL CAPABILITIES AND DESIRE. If Are you planning to get by with just one air conditioner?, then we put it according to your needs (I recommend it in the bedroom).

If your budget allows, then an excellent solution would be to install “cond units” in two main rooms (bedroom and living room, for example). And at the same time, it is better to take into account the small power reserve. For example, if the living room and bedroom each have an area of ​​15 square meters, then you can put a “nine” of 2.7 kW in each (although a “seven” with a power of 2 kW would be quite suitable for each of the rooms!). This replacement will not cost much more, but in this situation, life-giving coolness will “reach” even into the corridor and kitchen.

If there is no money at all, then install air conditioners in every living room (bedroom, living room, kitchen).

Where to install air conditioning in the bedroom

In many apartments the bedroom area is 10-14 square meters. There is usually a window opposite the front door. “Traditionally” in such a room there is a bed opposite which there is a TV.

In this case, there are the following options for installing the air conditioner (sometimes called “side mounting”, since the hole in the wall is drilled to the side of the unit, and not under it):

• on the wall with the TV (closer to the wall with the window);
• on the wall where the head of the bed is located (closer to the wall with the window). If you are interested in a specific distance from the curtains, then read the article where I indicated.

If you choose between these two methods, then it is safer to place the indoor unit above the head of the bed (other things being equal). This is due to the fact that the cold flow from the block is less directed downward than in a straight line (if the block is placed opposite the bed, there will be a greater likelihood of cold air entering the sleeping area). But if there is a computer desk opposite the block, then you will have to choose the “lesser of evils”.

An equally effective option is also possible - placing the block “in the aisle” (between the foot of the bed and the TV). It is better to discuss this and other cases of placing an indoor unit on site with specialists. Since most of these options require agreement on specific technical and financial issues.

In order for you to imagine what other options there may be for the arrangement of “split” blocks, I provide a link to the article “”. If you are deciding where to buy an air conditioner, then I advise you to look at the link to one of the popular online stores of climate control equipment.

To install an air conditioner, as a rule, you need to call specialists who, upon completion of installation of the equipment, will issue you with a document indicating that the work was carried out correctly. If you install a split system yourself, you lose the right to warranty service. But in order to save money, many home craftsmen try to install the air conditioner themselves. In this case, it is worth considering one point: in order to properly connect the external unit of the system with the internal one, and then put the unit into operation, you will need to purchase quite a expensive equipment. In addition, installing a split system is quite a troublesome task if you do it yourself. Purchasing equipment is advisable in the following cases:

• you plan to move one or more units to new locations;
• if you purchased several units;
• you are planning a major renovation of your apartment, which involves complete dismantling and then reinstalling the split system;
• you want to help install a split system for your friends or relatives;
• If you need this set of tools to repair your car air conditioner.

In other cases, installing an air conditioner in an apartment with your own hands is impractical.

The standard configuration of a split system usually includes such components.

Important! To install the air conditioner yourself and put it into operation, you need to supplement the standard equipment of the device.

Installation materials and tools

To install a split system yourself, you will need to purchase the following materials.

You also cannot do without a special tool:

• pipe bender (how to use, shown in the video);
• Rimmer-stripping;
• pipe cutter (you can learn how to use it from the video);
• rolling (see video);
• manifold;
• Vacuum pump.

Selecting a mounting location for the indoor unit

The location of the indoor module should be such that during its operation you do not experience discomfort from the flow of cool air. If you look at the following figure, it will become clear without words what types of ideal options installing an air conditioner in the apartment.

When placing the module above the head of the bed, the flow of cold air will not enter the rest area and will not cause harm to health. Workplace It is recommended to position it so that the air flow is either from the side or from the rear. If the table you work at is located under an air conditioner in an apartment or office, you can install a special screen under the hairdryer to direct the flow along the ceiling.

Requirements for installation of the indoor unit

There are the following rules for placing the indoor air conditioner unit in a room:

• the distance between the hair dryer and the ceiling must be at least 15 cm (some models are installed at a distance of 20-30 cm from the ceiling);
• the distance from the installed block to the wall on the right or left is at least 30 cm;
• the obstacle in the path of air flow should be no closer than 150 cm.

Sometimes the question arises: at what height should I hang the indoor module if the room has high ceilings? On average, you can hang an air conditioner on the wall at a height 280 cm from the floor, as it shown on the picture.

The following figure shows examples of various installation options, clearly showing how best to install the air conditioner.

Requirements for installation of the outdoor unit

The external module of the unit is usually placed under a window, near a window or on a balcony. If the balcony fence is strong enough, then you can fix the module on it.

If the apartment is on the first floor, then the outdoor unit must be located at a height of at least 2 meters from the ground, adhering to the rule: the outdoor unit must be mounted slightly lower than the indoor unit, or at the same level with it.

When installing split system modules, you should remember the minimum and maximum distances between them. These values ​​may differ between different HVAC manufacturers. For example, for Panasonic split systems the minimum distance between modules can be 3 meters, and for Daikin – from 1.5 to 2.5 meters.

Some manufacturers do not specify a minimum distance at all. In this case, the blocks can be placed back to back.

The maximum length of the route between modules is usually 6 meters. More is allowed, but in such a situation it will be necessary refilling with freon, which entails additional material investments. Therefore, if you install the air conditioner yourself, it is better not to exceed the designated 6 meters.

Installation procedure

The procedure for installing an air conditioner, including inverter air conditioner, implies a phased installation of all its modules and highways. Installation must be performed following the step-by-step instructions below.

The rules for installing an air conditioner state that at the first stage you will need to install the indoor unit (hair dryer) of the air conditioner. To do this, follow these steps.

1. To properly install the air conditioner yourself, take a steel mounting frame and attach it to the wall where the hair dryer is intended to be installed (taking into account all the distances described above). It is important that the frame for installing the air conditioner is placed strictly horizontally(use a building level).
2. Mark places for fastenings.
3. Using a hammer drill, make holes in the wall and hammer plastic dowels into them.
4. Place the plate against the wall and secure it with self-tapping screws.
5. The hair dryer is suspended on the mount (plate) for the air conditioner, after which it is necessary to check the horizontal position again. If you allow the air conditioner in the room to become distorted reverse side from the drainage channel, the liquid will accumulate in the pan and flow down the walls.

Preparation of communication channels

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation continues with preparing the channel for the main line. To bring out the freon circuit tubes, power cables and drainage, it is necessary to make a hole of the appropriate diameter in the wall. For this, a hammer drill with a long drill is used. To ensure free flow of condensate to the street, it is necessary to make slight slope.

Outdoor unit installation

Installing an external air conditioner unit is considered the most labor-intensive process when installing split systems. The difficulties arise from the fact that the weight of the module can reach 20 kg or more, due to the compressor located in it. In addition, most often the external module is installed at a high height.

To begin, make markings using a level. Then use a hammer drill to make holes. Next, anchor bolts are screwed into them, and the brackets themselves are screwed to them with nuts. After the brackets are securely fastened, the external module is installed on them.

When installing an air conditioner, especially an outdoor unit, you will need the help of at least one person. If the module is installed at a high altitude, then you will not be able to install the air conditioner yourself. It is better to use the services of climbers to hang this module.

The outdoor module is attached to the brackets using bolts. It is recommended to place thick rubber under the feet to reduce vibration.

Connecting blocks by communications

To continue installing the split system with your own hands, you need to connect both modules to each other.

1. First of all, remove the protective plastic covers on the terminals of the external unit. Using the instructions, connect the control and power cables that come from the indoor module to them.
2. Carefully, in order to connect the modules in the future, make route installation your air conditioner, having previously put thermal insulation on the tubes (the ends are fixed with reinforced tape). To prevent debris from getting into the tubes, also seal their ends with tape. The track is secured with clamps screwed to the wall. After this, measure the length of the line and cut the tubes, leaving a margin of 10 cm. Place union nuts on them and roll the ends. Using a rimmer, remove the chamfer. The laying of a route (main) for an air conditioner can be carried out both outside and inside the premises, if for aesthetic reasons it is prohibited to place any communications on the facade of the building.
3. Using union nuts, first screw the tubes to the fittings of the external module, then to the fittings of the internal module.
4. Secure the drain tube using plastic clamps.

Below is a diagram of the connection of split system modules.

Vacuuming

Without evacuating the line, refrigerant cannot be introduced into the system. This procedure will require a vacuum pump and a gauge manifold. The pump is connected to the filling fitting through the manifold, as shown in the figure below (the valves on the manifold should be in the “closed” position), after which it is turned on for 20-30 minutes. to remove residual air from the system.

After turning on the vacuum pump, you need to open the handle located under the low pressure gauge. After a short period of time, the needle on the pressure gauge will begin to fall and reach zero, within 30 seconds or more. The pumping time depends on the length of the line and the diameter of the tubes. The position of the arrow at zero means that in the highway a vacuum has formed.

Do not turn off the pump at this stage. Continue vacuuming for about 30 minutes. After the specified time has passed, first turn off the tap on the manifold, and only then turn off the pump. If the tap is not closed, air will leak into the system.

Freon filling

Freon is launched into the system without disconnecting the hose connected to the service port valve. If this is done before the refrigerant starts, air will enter the line.

In order to independently introduce refrigerant into the system, you need to slowly open the valve located on the liquid valve using an allen key. After filling the line with refrigerant, you can unscrew the hose connected to the service port located on the gas valve.

Attention! When the hose is disconnected, freon may be released, which can freeze your hands and damage your eyes. It is recommended to wear safety glasses and gloves on your hands. The face must be kept away from the fitting.

It is necessary to unscrew the fitting from the valve as quickly as possible to reduce the loss of freon. Don't be alarmed by loud hissing. The nut may become covered with frost when the refrigerant escapes. Do not touch it without gloves to avoid getting burned.

All connections can be washed to check for leaks. After checking, screw all the plugs onto the valve valves, not applying much force, but well enough. If you tighten them loosely, then it is possible that during the winter period Freon leak.

After you have verified that the line is tight, turn on the split system for a while, then check all connections again. At this stage, the installation of the wall-mounted air conditioner is considered complete.

Do I need permission?

People often ask whether permission is needed to install a split system, and is it possible to install it without approval from the authorities? Based on practice, permission to install an air conditioner is not required. An exception may be cases when it is necessary to coordinate the installation of climate control equipment with the authorities in buildings that are architectural monuments or having historical, aesthetic value. In other cases, approval is not required for the installation of climate control equipment.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space, small apartments usually use a wall-mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. installation of separate wiring;
2. installation of an external condenser unit;
3. fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
4. connection of communications with vacuum;
5. test activation.

Tools

To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:

• a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
• pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
• a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
• an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
• a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
• vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
• indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
• pressure gauge for pressure control.

How to choose a place

Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:

• protect the device from direct sunlight and exposure to dust;
• guarantee the stability of the structure;
• provide sufficient free space for normal operation of the device.

Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:

• provide protection from sun or heating;
• eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
• provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
• prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
• guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.

Installation of separate wiring

A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.

It requires:

• two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
• 16A circuit breaker.

If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:

• avoid overloads;
• prevent device failure;
• eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condenser unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

• on the open balcony;
• on the loggia;
• on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.

Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia especially in winter time. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:

1. Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
2. The mounting plate is secured with screws;
3. In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
4. A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
5. a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
6. Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
7. If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
8. A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires using electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
9. The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.

Having completed the above work, you can install the external unit on the previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then it is necessary to take care of alternative options for discharging condensate indoors.

Sealing and vacuuming

It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. Sealing of connections is carried out using a soap solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. For this:

• open several running ports;
• connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
• turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
• close the low pressure lever;
• turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. If installation is performed correctly, the air conditioner will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:

• normal flow of cold air;
• correct position of the blinds;
• condensate drainage through drainage.

If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.

So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.