Connecting Kermi heating radiators. Technical characteristics of Kermi radiators. Cost of installation and installation of Kermi radiators

It’s strange, but there are few places where you can see the process of installing and connecting Kermi steel panels. In this album I propose to familiarize yourself with my experience using the example of the FTV series.
Kermi panels with bottom connections have a built-in valve group. Due to it, if necessary, each panel is hydraulically balanced. Therefore, they are more expensive than the side-connected series and do not require well-equipped manifolds. I took a naked Valtec. Available in albums.
Fastening Kermi panels to the wall:
The radiator kit includes standard fasteners + plastic latches and gaskets. There are no anchors, etc. In the new radiator, all this stuff lies inside, between the panels. Using the mounting angles, you can adjust the distance of the radiator from the wall (3 or 5 cm). The plastic spacers for the fastening eyes are fragile and can withstand 2-3 removal/installation of panels on the fastenings; there is 1 spare in each set. Normally, to fasten the hanging corners of the panels, it is proposed to use 10th bolts, I only had yellow screws (of a smaller thickness, of course) and, so that all this would not hang on the huge factory holes, we drilled into the corners for the screws. It turned out very strong and each screw really holds the corner. Instead of a drill, I used a roofing screw for metal tiles, as there was no necessary drill in the house either)
Connecting Kermi FTV panels:
radial distribution from the collector using a 16*2 pex-al-pex pipe is made along the ceiling of the previous floor
(to minimize gating). The pipes are hidden in 18mm energyflex with a wall thickness of 9mm. The pipe passages in the walls and ceilings would need to be corrugated, but I didn’t bother. The fasteners for hanging pipes were 38e, but 32e was also possible. I took the simplest multiflexes, BUT with nickels (special sealing spacer - adapter) and angular ones, so that the pipes from the floor were not visible (Oventrop Multiflex F ZB-lock-attachment, angular 3/4NG x 3/4HP). Thermal heads Oventrop Uni LH M30x15. Designed to regulate and maintain the desired temperature in the room, you can set a different temperature in each room. They have an adjustment blocker and an adjustment range blocker. With collector wiring, all thermal heads can close at the same time. If there is no bypass line or other circuit through which the flow is always open, then the pump may begin to work at a dead end. A replacement for the bypass can be one panel on this collector without a thermal head.
When filling the system, it is convenient to use the Mayevsky taps built into the radiator (if you look at the radiator - upper left corner). They have a plastic skirt with a hole for water - it rotates to direct the stream where you need it. Tap bolt for slotted screwdriver!!! There is NO point in unscrewing it completely (otherwise you won’t be able to push it back in later due to pressure). We unscrew it 3-4 turns and wait for water, sequentially bypassing all the radiators. The procedure can be repeated.
To use fittings, the pipe needs to be prepared after cutting; for this we use a calibrator - this should not be neglected. We bend the pipes with a spring jig - conveniently and without creases. We screw the thermal heads on by hand (setting it, for convenience, before screwing on the risks to the maximum.) Inside the thermal head, it is possible to install limiters and lock the T setting.
and finally, a video about Kermi:

It is known that heating that uses the lower level temperature spectrum is considered the most effective. In other words, normal temperature The coolant is now considered to be 65 – 70 °C.

This is due to quite obvious reasons:

  • At low temperatures in heating systems the control process is greatly simplified temperature conditions and temperature control in the heating network in general;
  • As the temperature in the system decreases, heat consumption decreases and thus fuel and electrical energy are saved. This leads to an overall reduction in space heating costs.

Changes in the temperature of the coolant in the heating system have different effects on the operating efficiency of heating devices of various designs.

  • In sectional radiators, as the coolant temperature decreases, in order to achieve similar heat transfer efficiency, it is necessary to proportionally increase the heating surface area. This leads to the fact that the size of heating devices of this type must be increased many times in order for them to heat the same room;
  • If the temperature of the coolant in the network decreases, they become inoperable altogether. The instructions do not allow their use in heating systems with low temperatures;
  • Panel structures (in particular Kermi steel heating radiators) show stable and efficient operation in conditions of decreasing coolant temperature.

Important!
Kermi panel heating radiators can be used in systems that use steel, copper, plastic and metal-plastic pipes, and also – in closed systems any type (single-pipe or double-pipe) and using membrane expansion tanks.

What is the constructive reason efficient work steel radiators? At first glance, a cast iron battery seems to be the most reliable heating device. Despite its bulkiness, a cast iron radiator should perform the functions of heating the room efficiently, but not everything is so simple.

To achieve the same heat transfer, seven times more heated coolant must pass through a cast iron radiator than through a steel panel radiator of the same power.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the coolant temperature for a cast iron battery should be approximately 15-25 °C higher. Naturally, this requires additional expense. electrical energy, fuel or natural gas and the price of heating increases.

Advantages

During operation, the Kermi heating radiator shows remarkable energy efficiency indicators. This efficiency is especially noticeable when using heating devices of this type in individual construction (private houses, country cottages etc.) .

For clarity, here is an example. A heating system installed in a private house, which is designed to work with cast-iron heating devices rather than steel ones, is able to heat two or three more buildings of the same area without increasing the power of the heating equipment.

Manufacturing

Kermi heating radiators have been produced by the German company of the same name for forty years and rightfully occupy the first places in the list of popularity among sales of equipment of this class in Europe. Steel radiators account for more than 90% of sales in Europe.

This means that a Kermi heating radiator is installed in nine out of ten heated rooms in Europe (of those installed).

Design features of steel panel radiators

  • When developing and constructing steel panel radiators, their operation was envisaged under conditions of using various temperature control equipment, as well as installation in modern systems closed-type heating systems, which are characterized by energy-saving factors;
  • In the production of steel panel radiators, cold-rolled steel with a thickness of 1.2 mm is used;
  • Radiators are manufactured in a multi-row design (from one to three);

  • It is possible to install convective fins on the heating panel;
  • Steel panel radiators are produced in a wide range of rated heat transfer capacities, which makes it possible to use these heating devices in various rooms and operating conditions.

Range

Currently, Kermi produces panel radiators in a wide range. In addition, the company produces heated towel rails and steel tubular radiators, which are considered a fairly high-quality type of heating elements with an original design that sets them apart from the general range of heating devices.

Important!
Tubular radiators produced by this company are considered the safest in terms of your safety, both thermal and mechanical.
They don't have sharp corners, which can cause injury.

The range of steel radiators includes models with different types surfaces:

  • profiled (Profil);
  • smooth (Plan).

The installation height of these products ranges from 250 to 1,000 mm; installation length of steel radiators – 350 – 3,000 mm.

These factors make it possible to choose with your own hands the necessary heating device with the closest technical characteristics to the calculated ones, as well as with dimensions that will fit into the interior of the room.

The number of heating panels for each radiator (as mentioned above, there can be from one to three) allows you to change the power of the heating device while maintaining the same sections. This certainly makes it possible to choose options for the power of the heating device.

Kermi has also released valve radiators under the Profil V and Plan V trademarks, which differ in the piping (bottom or side), as well as the presence of a thermal valve. These devices provide for the installation of an automatic thermostatic head.

Radiators with symbol"12" are ultra-flat two-row compact batteries with a heat output 25% higher than the 11-series radiators. These devices have an installation depth of 65 mm, which makes it possible to install them without installing a special niche, which increases their power.

Video about Kermi radiators:

conclusions

Panel steel radiators with exquisite finishes and a variety of colors fit perfectly into any room design. And theirs are wonderful specifications in terms of heat transfer make them not only attractive, but also very effective.

Buying or renovating a private home is certainly an important and joyful event. However, it has many different difficulties, which there is not always the strength and time to solve. For example, a “thermal” problem in your home that cannot be left for later. But at the same time, natural questions arise: what is the cost of installing heating batteries? Which brand of radiators should you pay attention to? How will the heating medium be installed and how long will it take?

We will be happy to help you with making such an important decision! Our company, which is an official dealer, namely “Kermi”, will give you quick and free advice on all issues of interest, and will help you choose a suitable heating battery, the warmth of which will delight you even on the most rainy Moscow days. It is worth noting that the cost of installing a radiator will also please you extremely. In most cases it is fixed and is the average on the market.

Why exactly “Kermi”? These heating batteries are made from the best modern materials, namely steel. The radiator will have a presentable appearance for a long time and will harmoniously complement the interior of your home! Kermi has a long history and a good reputation among customers. In addition, radiators of this brand are extremely easy to install and durable.

Of course, installing batteries has various nuances, which our specialists will explain to you completely free of charge! You just need to call us and send us a plan of the room in which the selected radiator will be installed. Our engineers will give you comprehensive answers to all questions.

The cost of installing heating radiators in a private house averages about 250 thousand rubles. One cannot but agree that heating in the house is an extremely important point on which you cannot save and, of course, you should trust a trusted brand and craftsmen who will save your precious time and money.

Our engineering department carries out installation of heating systems, cold and hot water supply and sewerage, with any level of complexity.
During installation, only high-quality equipment and materials are used, used by our specialists for two decades.

Table of estimated installation costs

Name Description of work PRICE
BOILER ROOM:
(installation of any complexity)
Electric boiler installation Installation, connection to the system From 6.000
Installation of a wall-mounted boiler (single-circuit) From 8.000
Installation of a wall-mounted boiler (double-circuit) Installation, connection to the chimney, connection to the heating and water supply system From 10.000
Installation of a floor-standing boiler up to 60 kW Installation, connection to the chimney, connection to the heating and water supply system From 14.000
Installation of a floor-standing boiler up to 140 kW Installation, connection to the chimney, connection to the heating and water supply system From 20.000
Installation of a floor-standing boiler over 140 kW Individually Individually
Installation of an indirect boiler,
combined heating up to 200l
From 6.000
Installation of an indirect boiler,
combined heating over 200l
Installation, piping, connection to heating and water supply systems From 8.000
Security group installation 1.200
Installation of expansion tank Installation, connection to the heating system From 1.500
Installation circulation pump Installation, connection From 3.000
Installation of a distribution manifold in a boiler room Installation of combs for pumping groups From 2.000
Installation of the pump group Installation, connection to the heating system From 3.500
Installation of hydraulic boom Installation, connection From 2.000
Burner installation (gas, diesel) Installation, connection, adjustment, startup From 8.000
Installation of remote boiler room control Installation, connection to systems From 5.000
Various boiler room works Individually Individually
INSTALLATION OF HEATING, WARM FLOOR:
Installation, installation of a heating radiator, with laying and connecting pipes From 3.000
Installation of a heating convector, with laying and connecting pipes Assembly, installation, connection From 3.000
Installation of water heated floor Laying insulation, laying pipes in clips From 600r/m2
Installation of manifold cabinet (external) Installation From 1.500
Installation of manifold cabinet (built-in) Strobe (brick, foam block), installation From 5.000
Installation of a collector (comb) up to 6 circuits From 4.000
Installation of a collector with more than 6 circuits Installation, connection to the heating system, water supply, heated floor + 500 per contour
Installation of riser pipes Installation From 500
Installation of a room thermostat Installation, connection From 1.000
Installation of a thermostat on heating radiators Installation From 200
Strobe (brick, concrete, foam block, etc.) Individually Individually
Installation of insulation on a pipe Laying insulation on a pipe From 50r/per m
Pressing the heating system From 3.000
Pressing the heated floor system Commissioning, commissioning From 3.000
CHIMNEY:
Chimney installation (inside the house) Assembly and fastening of chimney components From 1.500
Chimney installation (outside the house) Individually Individually
Installation of a coaxial or turbo chimney Installation, hole punching From 2.500
WATER SUPPLY:
Installation of instantaneous water heater From 3.000
Installation of a storage type water heater Installation, connection to the water supply system From 4.000
Installation and connection of a water socket Installation of water outlets for hot or cold water, with pipe laying From 1.400
Installation of cold water supply system pipes Installation of a pipeline from source to entry into the house From 4.000
Installation of a well pump Installation, connection From 5.000
Installation of a submersible well pump Installation, connection From 4.000
Installation pumping station Installation, connection From 4.000
Installation of a hydraulic accumulator Installation, connection From 2.500
Installation of a drain valve in a well or borehole Installation, connection From 2.000
Pressure switch installation Installation, connection From 2.000
Installation of an automation unit for the pump (dry running protection) Installation, connection From 2.000
Check valve installation Installation 200
Pressure reducer installation Installation, connection From 800
Installation of water meter for hot water supply, hot water supply Installation, connection From 2.000
Installation of fine filters Installation From 700
SEWER DRAIN (inside the house):
Installation of a sewer pipe to the drain point Installation, connection From 1.600
Installation of a drain pipe (without passing through the roof) Installation, connection From 2.000
Installation of a sewer bed Installation, connection From 2.600
Installation of a sewer riser Installation, connection From 2.000
Ladder installation Installation From 1.000
Installation of a sewer check valve Installation From 1.000
Installation of sololift sewage pumping unit Installation, connection From 4.500
Installation of a drainage pump Individually Individually
Water analysis Installation, connection From 1.000
Selection of a water treatment system based on the obtained water analysis Individually Individually
Installation of a water treatment plant Installation, connection, commissioning Individually
Replacing the filter cartridge Installation, connection From 300
ELECTRICAL/INSTALLATION (equipment) Cable laying, connection Individually
EXTERIOR WORK (various types) Individually Individually
PLUMBING/EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION Individually Individually

Which heating radiators should I buy, what should I choose, and who should I trust to install heating devices? As in other matters related to the construction of a private house or apartment renovation, you can completely take on the solution of all issues or entrust the work to professionals.

But when installing heating there is a large number of difficulties, while the heating system is planned to be installed once, and you want it to serve for many years and not make you regret the money you once saved on the subsequent removal and installation of the radiator. In this article we will try to figure out how to properly create a heating project for your home, and we will tell you about the principles of installing and connecting kermi radiators to the heating system.

Any search engine on request will return many sites that, without any problems, will create a project for you and compile a list of equipment that you will need to purchase (specification). The cost of these documents will directly depend on the number of square meters in your home and the level of complexity of the heating network. In addition, a number of other factors are taken into account that also affect the cost of creating a project. We recommend that you provide the prepared documentation to the installers for review, or take into account the information provided by equipment suppliers, since heating devices vary in configuration.

In this article, we will not go into detail about the installation and configuration of heating boilers, the laying of pipe lines, the purpose of pumps, or which heating system to use in a particular case. Here we will discuss only the principles of installing heating radiators. Buying heating radiators with a full set of mounting accessories is not a problem. After all, KERMI steel radiators are supplied with a complete installation kit.

Complete set of radiators Kermi (Kermi) FKV, FKO

The standard KERMI FKV radiator kit includes:

  • brackets for mounting the heating battery on the wall;
  • Mayevsky valve;
  • thermostat valve;

The standard KERMI FKO radiator kit includes:

  • heating radiator, selected by size;
  • bracket for mounting the device on the wall;
  • stub;
  • Mayevsky valve;
  • separation plug;
  • key for installing the separation plug;
  • dense polyethylene packaging.

Mounting (installation) of radiators with bottom connection

The principles of installing radiators with your own hands are quite simple. First of all, remove the mounting plates from the packaging. Do not rush to completely remove the protective film from the radiator; it will keep its surface in perfect condition until the completion of construction work in the house. Next, you attach the plates to the walls (you need to correctly calculate the installation height of the fastening, the distance between the plates: they must be at the same level). If you install the brackets incorrectly, the heating radiator may be installed crookedly, or simply will not fit into the grooves. After this operation, you should put the heating battery on the mounting plates. We remind you that the distance from the floor to the radiator and from the radiator to the window sill should be from 10 to 13 cm above and below.

Thus, we installed heating batteries. After this procedure, you need to connect the battery to the heating system. This will require additional accessories that are not included in the standard kit. Heating radiators with bottom and side connections require different components. The KERMI FKV is connected to the heating system thanks to a connection group (multiflex), cone inserts, a fitting (eurocone) with a 2/3 union nut (this fitting is purchased along with the pipes). The connection sequence is as follows. We take two conical inserts and place them tightly into the radiator connection pipes, after which we screw on the connection group and tighten it tightly with a wrench. Next, we take the Eurocone, attach it to the pipe and simply connect the pipe and the multiflex (when using polypropylene pipes, you must additionally purchase two cone inserts that are placed between the fitting and the multiflex). The most important thing to remember is that in a radiator the coolant flows in a certain direction, so the supply is always the inner tube, and the return is the outer. We left the simplest thing for last: installing the thermostat. You just need to screw it onto the mounting location.

Replacing heating radiators with bottom connections

is not difficult. Before starting work, it is necessary to shut off the coolant supply ( hot water) into the heating radiator, this is very easy to do, since this feature is already provided on the multiflex. After that, you should unscrew the connection between the radiator and the multiflex, and then simply remove the radiator from the mounting plates.

Do-it-yourself radiator installation with side connection

First, we recommend reading the radiator installation instructions that come with the kit. It describes some features of installing heating radiators, such as: the coolant supply should be made at the top of the heating radiator, and the return should be at the bottom of the radiator. It doesn’t matter which side the supply and return will be on. In order for the THERM X2 system to work correctly on batteries with types 12, 22, 33, you need to install a separation plug on the return line, but everything is in order.

At the first stage, we install the mounting plates on the wall: you need to correctly calculate the mounting height and the distance between the plates; the plates must be at the same level. If you install the plates incorrectly, the heating radiator may be installed crookedly, or simply not fit into the grooves. After this operation, you simply need to put the radiator on the mounting plates. We remind you that the distance from the finished floor to the radiator and from the radiator to the window sill should be in the range of 10 to 13 cm above and below. The main thing is not to completely remove the protective film, as it will help keep your heating device in perfect condition until the repair is completed. But the installation of heating batteries does not end there. It is necessary to install the THERM X2 separation plug on the return line. This plug does not allow the cooled coolant to remain in the heating battery and removes it from the radiator.

Now let's connect the radiator to the heating system. To do this, you will need two valves, one to supply fluid to the battery, and the second to remove fluid from the battery. Let's start with the intake valve. Connection dimensions ½, external thread. Please note that for ease of installation and replacement of heating batteries, this valve must be equipped with an “American” valve. We separate the valve from the American, screw the valve onto the heating pipe, then screw the American into the battery. Then we connect the two elements of the intake valve. Now we connect the check valve. The process is the same as when installing the intake valve. After this, the heater is ready for use.

Installing the separation plug for kermi

Place the mounting key in the separation plug. Then visually verify the correct connection. When the key handle is positioned horizontally, the plug should be in a vertical position. We install a plug in the heating radiator. To do this, bring the plug to the battery, pay attention to the arrow on the key (the arrow should point to the back plate of the heating battery). Insert the separation plug into the connecting thread of the radiator. For convenience, you can slightly squeeze the plug and, moving it back and forth, insert it until it stops. Remove the mounting key. Connect the heating batteries.

Replacing heating batteries with bottom connection

Replacing batteries will also not be difficult. You just need to shut off the supply of coolant to the heating radiator at the inlet and return valves, unscrew the American connection, after which you just need to pull it off the mounting plates, and you can replace it.

Conclusion

Now we know that you can buy heating radiators anywhere and you can install heating batteries yourself, and replacing heating batteries is not a problem at all, given that the installation was done correctly and using suitable shut-off valves.

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