Among the huge number indoor plants one of the most spectacular is. Purifying the air from harmful impurities, it has served as an interior decoration for many centuries.
We will tell you more about how rubber grows, as well as the rules for caring for and protecting the plant from diseases and pests in the article.
Ficus belongs to the Mulberry family. India is considered its homeland. Here it becomes a huge tree, reaching a height of forty meters.
In its natural habitat it forms powerful aerial roots, which, intertwining, sometimes create very bizarre “structures”.
It is not uncommon for roots to come out when grown in a pot. The aerial root of ficus is one of its features.
The leaves are located one above the other, have an oval shape with a clear division in the middle.
The tips are pointed. The color of the plates is rich green, glossy. Decorative varieties They also have a different color. The most common representatives:
- Belize. Beautiful, white-pink border of foliage and reddish stems.
- Decor. The young crown has a bronze tint.
- Variegata. Variegated yellow-green leaves.
Each view is beautiful in its own way. However, the most popular is the rubber-bearing ficus Robusta. Its dark, fleshy greenery has decorated a huge number of apartments since Soviet times.
Previously, ficus was grown in entire plantations. They did this for industrial purposes: rubber was extracted from the stems and roots, which was used to create rubber products.
The culture is quite unpretentious. Loves good lighting, especially variegated species, but can even grow on northern windows. True, in the dark the plant will stretch upward more, and the foliage will become noticeably smaller.
Most comfortable temperature in summer 18-25°. In winter, 15° will be enough.
The tree is distinguished by its hardiness and relative resistance to drought, as it tends to retain “extra” moisture in the stems, roots and leaves. However, this does not mean that the ficus need not be watered at all. On the contrary, in hot weather, moisturizing should be done twice a week, and only with the onset of cold weather can watering be reduced to a minimum, remembering the “favorite” once every two months.
In addition, the plant will be grateful if you “bathe” it with a shower or simply spray it with a spray bottle.
For lush growth, fertilizing will also be useful, which should be applied every 10 days.
Reproduction options
Fucus rubber - amazing plant! Getting new trees will not be difficult and even an inexperienced gardener can cope with it. The following methods are used:
Cuttings. For preparations, use the apical segments, which have 5-6 leaves.
After separating the branch, it is thoroughly washed to remove the juice. Then with liquid for several days. The water is changed periodically.
To speed up the root formation process, you can add honey, aloe juice or industrial growth stimulants to the container.
Air layering. On a straight, even shoot with 4-5 leaves, two cuts are made with a distance of 1.5 centimeters. Then the bark between them is cleared.
The area is treated with a root former and wrapped with moisture-retaining material (perlite, moss, sponge). The operation site is hermetically sealed with film.
After the formation of sufficiently strong aerial roots, the branch is separated from the mother plant and placed in a nutrient substrate.
Escape with a leaf. For a full-fledged tree to form, one leaf will not be enough. Such a preparation will, of course, form roots, but the stem will never appear. Therefore, when choosing this method of propagation, you need to use a leaf plate along with a piece of wood.
Ficus (fikus) ready for cuttings
The lower edge of the cutting is made obliquely, and sometimes it is additionally split by inserting a piece of a match into the gap. The greens are rolled into a tube and secured with a rope or rubber band. Then the shoot is placed in water or directly in the ground.
For propagation to be successful, work must be done in winter. It is at this time that the ficus secretes the smallest amount of juice, which can become an obstacle to the formation of roots.
A good period for harvesting will be the spring-summer season, when the flower grows and develops most actively.
Proper care and formation of ficus
After the cuttings have acquired their own root system, they need to be planted. Which soil should you choose?
The substrate must be loose, have good throughput and be maximally saturated with nutrients. To prepare it, you need to take sand, leaf and turf soil, humus and peat. All components are taken in equal quantities.
1.5-2 cm of drainage is poured into the “leaky” pot, then a little soil mixture and only then a young seedling. The roots are carefully straightened and completely covered with soil. It is necessary to compact the earthen layers very slightly so as not to disrupt the air permeability of the soil.
In the future, caring for young growth is the same as for adult ficus: maintaining heat, moderate watering, sufficient lighting and timely application of fertilizers. It is recommended to do feeding from the second year of life.
Don't forget about the transplant. “Novices” change containers from smaller to larger ones every year. Strong ficuses are “relocated” only in case of urgent need, when the roots are already crawling out of the container. For the “old people”, it is enough to update the top layer of soil.
Some flower growers are engaged. If the crop is grown as a single-trunk tree, then work is limited to periodically removing dried leaves.
To obtain bushiness, pruning is necessary. First, the apical growth point is pinched off, and after the lateral shoots appear, the process is repeated with them.
By the way, the remaining “unnecessary” pieces can be used as material for cuttings.
It is worth remembering that the juice secreted by ficus is relatively poisonous. It can cause skin irritation, so it is advisable to wear gloves when shaping the plant.
Diseases and pests
Ficus (fíkus), grown at home
The most common insects found are:
- Thrips. The foliage becomes covered with a shiny coating, and red spots appear below.
- Spider mite. Drying blots on all parts of the plant, white or grayish dust, cobwebs.
- Shield. The flower becomes sticky to the touch.
- Mealybug. Light, rough areas appear on the inside of the leaves.
Pest control measures are very similar.
First, the tree needs to be washed under running water, then treated with an insecticide or some folk remedy.
Spider mites are quite dangerous pests that are not easy to get rid of. The reason is that tick larvae are resistant to many drugs. Therefore, when choosing a remedy, you should pay attention to the features of its action and the individuals at what stage it affects.
Sometimes, when attacked by mites, the foliage begins to turn yellow and wither, then dry out and fall off. It is imperative to start treatment on time, otherwise the flower will become so weakened by the pest that it may not be able to withstand treatment with strong chemicals.
First, you should isolate the infected plant. It is best to follow this recommendation when attacked by any pests. Then increase the humidity level. After all, dry air is preferable for ticks.
And yet, both in bathing and in spraying, moderation must be observed. Otherwise, The rhizome or stem will begin to rot. During such events, it is better to hold the pot at an angle or cover the soil with something so that moisture does not get into it.
The flower can be sprayed with Actellik or Neoron. The procedure is carried out at least 2 times. During the first treatment, Neoron only damages the larvae. Therefore, repeated spraying is required.
In addition to medications aimed at killing ticks, there are also those that sterilize females. These measures are also effective.
In addition to treating the plant itself, we recommend disinfecting the place where the flower was located. To do this, the window sill and glass are washed with baking soda. It is also better to iron the curtains. Even after complete recovery, it is better to keep the flower in quarantine for some time.
When attacked by scale insects, we recommend both local exposure and treatment with drugs. The first method is to lubricate the bumps with pests with an alcohol or soap solution using a brush or cotton swab. And after that, remove with a brush or cloth.
In addition to insects, rubber fíkus can “suffer” due to errors in care.
Unpleasant smell. Most often, this sign signals rotting of the roots, which occurs due to poor drainage.
To eliminate the “sore,” the plant must be removed from the soil, the roots inspected, dead and diseased ones removed, healthy parts dusted with activated carbon, and planted in a container with new soil.
Falling or yellowing of leaves. Most often, such a nuisance occurs when the water regime is violated. The ficus is either over-watered or, conversely, lacks “drink.” To correct the situation, the soil should either be dried or watered.
The flower doesn't grow. In the case of arrested development, the reason is simple: the pot is too small. All you have to do is replant the culture and everything will return to normal.
While watching the video you will learn about.
Let the rubber ficus attract good luck to your home and delight you with its splendor all year round!
Frequently Asked Questions: Ficus
General information on caring for ficus.
They gave us an adult rubber-bearing ficus, tall - more than a meter tall. But he is apparently sick: more and more new leaves begin to darken, brown spots appear and leaves wrinkle. It grows poorly in a cramped pot. First of all, we wanted to transplant it, but we were advised not to injure the ficus by transplanting, but to cure it first. How to proceed?
1.How to water ficus trees correctly?
2.What does ficus like?
3. White convex dots have appeared on the leaves of my young ficus (plant height about 40 cm), what are they? He is ill?
4.How to form Ficus elastica?
5. My ficus leaves are falling off.
6.Ficus "Natasha" does not grow. Tell me what can have such a strong influence on growth. I replanted it several times, but to no avail.
7.What soil mixture should the ficus be replanted into?
8.Ficus is sick! The stem below began to darken and wither (about 10 cm), the lower leaves fell off, and the rest all drooped.
9. We filled ficus Benjamin! It has dropped almost all its leaves!
10. Does anyone know or may have done it yourself: if you pinch the top of a rubber ficus (with large leaves), will it sprout shoots in different directions?
11.After transplantation, the ficus fell ill and the leaves fell off.
12. Brown spots began to appear on the edges of large leaves, they increase in size, cover the entire edge, because of this the leaves become wavy, as if corrugated, and then fall off. The leaf itself is very reminiscent of paper, the edges of which have been set on fire - brown round spots and uneven frayed edge. All this has been going on for six months now.
13.How to “braid” a ficus?
14.How to root a rubber ficus cutting?
15.What conditions does the tiny ficus want?
16. The ficus tree has dried up. Watered moderately. Sprayed the leaves. What to do?
17. Ficus benjamina is losing its leaves!
18. Is it possible to remove some of the roots from Ficus Benjamin when replanting?
19. Should I replant ficus from store soil?
20. We were given an adult rubber-bearing ficus, tall - more than a meter tall. But he is apparently sick: more and more new leaves begin to darken, brown spots appear and leaves wrinkle. It grows poorly in a cramped pot. First of all, we wanted to transplant it, but we were advised not to injure the ficus by transplanting, but to cure it first. How to proceed?
1.Answer: It is better to transplant and treat at the same time. Perhaps he has been cramped for a long time. If you decide to replant, then take a pot 7-8 cm larger in diameter and 8-10 cm larger in height than a saucepan, ceramics or plastic - it doesn’t matter. The presence of a drainage hole is mandatory, pour a 3-4 cm layer of drainage downwards, from ready-made mixtures - “begonia” or “lemon” from “Garden of Miracles”, you can mix their own “rose” with “cactus” in a ratio of 2\1, 3 /1, although this is not entirely correct. Remove from the pot and shake if possible. old land, inspect the roots, if there are rotten ones, cut them down to the living ones, sprinkle the sections with crushed coal (even activated in tablets), pour so much earth down onto the drainage so that the surface of the earth remains at the same level, i.e. There is almost no need to add soil from above, only from below and on the sides (you need to add soil from above, only if you managed to shake off the old top layer of soil). Regarding treatment, it is difficult to say what the problem is without seeing the plant and not knowing the conditions of its maintenance; it could be diseases, pests, or poor conditions. When eliminating negative factors the plant will gradually recover. First, inspect the underside of the leaves and axils for pests; any foreign “objects” are a reason to be wary; if you find something, write to the forum, they will identify it and suggest methods of control. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to start by washing the leaves on both sides. boiled water, after drying, spray with “epin” according to the instructions (5-7 drops per 200 grams of water) and continue to spray with it once a week for at least 2 months (epin does not kill pests and does not heal, it somehow increases the plant’s immunity , diseases and pests, if any are found, will have to be dealt with separately).
2. How to water ficus trees correctly?
Answer: After transplanting, water very little. Ficuses, in general, should be watered only after 1/4, 1/3 of the pot has completely dried (check by sticking your finger in the ground, or by weight, but this is with experience), quite abundantly, preferably with warm (add boiling water), soft water (although -let it stand for 24 hours, if possible, pass it through a household filter). It is impossible to say how often to water because... it depends on so many factors - the time of year, the size of the pot, the ambient temperature, the speed at which the plant itself “drinks” and its condition. Ficuses really don’t like flooding; this causes the leaves to turn yellow SHARPLY AND QUICKLY.
3. What does ficus like?
Answer: The location is as bright as possible, rubber plants can tolerate a couple of hours of direct sun a day, it is ideal to place it near a window curtained with tulle, except on the north side, in which case there is no need to curtain it. Doesn't like strong drafts, but strong drafts; he can just stand under an open window. Feed once every two weeks with any organic fertilizer for indoor plants, you can use mullein, in winter once every 1.5-2 months, plus feed with “Emerald” or an analogue to compensate for the lack of lighting - in winter. Although I feed this way - I add fertilizer with each watering, but in a much lower concentration, in the summer 1\4-1\6 of the recommended dose, in the winter - 1\8-1\10, my plants do not complain. Ficus loves spraying, but only with warm and preferably boiled water (otherwise there will be a white limescale coating on the leaves), you can spray it at least twice a day. Periodically (once a month) wipe the leaves with a damp sponge or cloth, also with boiled water.
4. White convex dots have appeared on the leaves of my young ficus (plant height about 40 cm), what are they? He is ill?
Answer: How white are the dots? What size? If they are still light green and small, then everything is fine, all adult specimens have them, look around in stores.
5. How to form Ficus elastica?
Answer: Usually ficus elastica grows with one trunk, this is not very beautiful. Therefore, it is recommended that, after growing the stem to a certain size - whatever size you like - you pinch the top (what you pinch off can be rooted). After this, lateral shoots will appear on the trunk in the axils of the leaves, which will subsequently form a crown. In turn, they can also be pruned so that they branch more strongly.
6. My ficus leaves are falling off.
Answer: If the plant has just been purchased, this is a normal phenomenon, especially in ficus Benjamin - it is simply a reaction to transportation, replanting, etc. Then it will move away, new leaves will grow, but "Epin" of course will not harm.
7. Ficus "Natasha" does not grow. Tell me what can have such a strong influence on growth. I replanted it several times, but to no avail.
Answer: This ficus belongs to the category of growing very slowly. In this situation, a bright window and moderate watering with POKON "Ficus" fertilizer will help. And, besides, he really does not like rearrangements, drafts and deep pots.
8. What soil mixture should the ficus be replanted into?
Answer: Try replanting it in a mixture of turf, leaves, humus, peat and sand in equal proportions. Just don’t forget that ficus needs good drainage, because... ficus is afraid of stagnant water. But it was advisable to do the transplant in the spring, because... at other times it may shed its leaves.
9. Ficus is sick! The stem below began to darken and wither (about 10 cm), the lower leaves fell off, and the rest all drooped.
Answer: Signs of overflow. If it is flooded, then the roots are probably rotten. It is necessary to remove it from the pot and replace the soil. Or, at worst, cut the top and root it in water, if it’s completely hopeless. And for a better effect, you can add some kind of root former, succinic acid, for example, or humin to the water where the cutting is standing. It’s worth checking with your nearest flower shop to see what they have from root-forming plants, and everything is written on the packages - you’ll figure it out!
10. Filled Ficus Benjamin! It has dropped almost all its leaves!
Answer: Carefully separate all the soil from the plant (at the same time, inspect the roots, most likely they have rotted - they have become like thin gray threads). Replant in light, almost dry soil and place in partial shade (where there is no sun, but it is light). Then only spray the top layer of soil and the plant itself. You can water around (at the very walls of the pot), but only VERY limited.
And it’s best to spray it thoroughly (and the ground too) after replanting with epin (1 ampoule per 0.75-1 liter of water), pour a little water into the pan, crumble coal (from a match or activated - so as not to rot) onto the ground and seal it tightly in transparent vessel. Then you don’t need to do anything at all with the plant for a couple of weeks, just check it periodically. There is no need to ventilate the condensate. Will come to life!
11. Who knows or maybe did it himself: if you pinch the top of the rubber ficus (with large leaves), will it send shoots in different directions?
Answer: It definitely will, I checked it myself, and the cut off top very quickly produces roots right in the water. By the way, about 10 leaves is nonsense, although in one smart book I read one restriction regarding pruning this particular ficus: a bare specimen must be cut no lower than 10 cm from the lower healthy leaf, then the old plant will produce new shoots.
12. After transplantation, the ficus fell ill and the leaves fell off:
Answer: Ficus, as a rule, tolerates transplantation very painfully, and it is quite possible that this is why it is sick. Ficus really doesn't like changing places. They say that he may not even like the color of the carpet. And the transplant was additional stress. It seems to me that we should leave it alone - just make sure that there is enough light and water (just don’t flood it). It will calm down and new leaves will grow. Just don’t rearrange it anymore, don’t fertilize it, and don’t replant it.
This, of course, is subject to proper care: enough moisture, shading from direct sun (especially after transplantation), and absence of drafts. And to relieve stress, you can try spraying with Epin.
13. Brown spots began to appear on the edges of large leaves, they increase in size, cover the entire edge, because of this the leaves become wavy, as if corrugated, and then fall off. The leaf itself is very reminiscent of paper, the edges of which have been set on fire - brown round spots and uneven frayed edge. All this has been going on for six months now.
Answer: You need to carefully examine the surface and especially the back side of the leaves: the symptoms you described are similar to an infestation with a red flat mite (not a spider mite!). This infection is very, very small, less than half a millimeter, so it is difficult to detect. In addition, if you don’t find the beast, try spraying the plant with foundationazole or something similar: necrosis of leaf tissue can be caused by anthracnose. In addition, the symptoms resemble downy mildew on cucumbers and late blight on tomatoes. These are fungal diseases, and, first of all, you need to reduce the air humidity (do not spray and water very sparingly). Treatment consists of treatment with a copper-containing drug, Oxyx (copper oxychloride), sold freely. Spray all parts of the flower from all sides, water the soil, treat the outer surface of the pot, all the flowerpots and - into the insulator! The infection may already be present on other flowers. In any case, don't give up.
14. How to “braid” a ficus?
Answer: If there are several shoots, they are usually intertwined to make a beautiful stem. If there is only one sprout, plant it, and pretty soon it will grow side shoots. It is necessary to braid only plants of the same development, otherwise the large ones will suppress the small ones. It is necessary to curl immediately (with a height of 13 cm), when growing, immediately do a curl as soon as the size allows. Stay “braid” on the leaves. To prevent this braid from unraveling, wrap the trunk with woolen threads. Try to braid it tighter. The trunk, however, may be damaged in some places (the bark will burst, milky sap will appear), but it’s okay (the main thing is not to break it), then wash the trunk with warm water and that’s it... And so that the threads do not damage the trunk and do not grow into it, it is imperative to replace the threads with others every 1-2 months. Plus wrap the barrel at an angle of 45 degrees.
15. How to root a rubber ficus cutting?
Answer: The rubber-bearing ficus gives roots very slowly precisely because of the milky sap it contains. In addition, after cutting off a branch or stem, this juice quickly hardens in the air. It is usually recommended that just before placing a twig in water for rooting, do the following: rinse the cut area under a small stream of water - just gently remove the frozen juice with your hands, and then immediately put the cutting in the water. You can do this - in a greenhouse made of a transparent plastic box about 20 x 10 with a gap for air access. Wet expanded clay was poured onto the bottom of the greenhouse for moisture, the shoot was placed in a small pot in the ground, not in water, and the entire greenhouse was placed on a radiator. This is for bottom heating, accelerates root formation. Or you can do it this way - you need to cut the cutting in May - June, the apical cutting with 1 leaf. Roll the sheet into a tube and tie with an elastic band. Dip the cut into the root and plant it in the ground with sand. Maintain soil and air moisture, keep warm. It takes a long time to take root.
Or so - soak in water for a day (so that the tissues are saturated with water), then in a root formation stimulator (heteroauxin, for example), according to the attached instructions, then plant in moist soil under a cover + spraying. When a leaf starts to grow, remove the cap - it has taken root.
16. What conditions does the tiny ficus want?
Answer: The soil can be used like a “palm tree”, it is suitable for both palm trees and ficus. Just keep in mind that the tiny ficus has a shallow root system and it is better for it to dilute the soil with some lightening additives. After transplantation, keep it warm and at high air humidity for the first time, because During the adaptation period, it may shed leaves. Do not place it close to the battery - it will dry out. Watering is quite rare, as the top layer of soil dries out a few centimeters.
17. The ampelous ficus has dried up. Watered moderately. Sprayed the leaves. What to do?
Answer: Ampelous ficuses do not like direct sunlight. Try changing the location. Apply with Emerald fertilizer. It's quite cheap. It can be combined (but not on the same day) with epin, but it quickly loses its properties in the light. If you water, you can do it at any time, but it’s better to spray when it’s dark.
18. Ficus benjamina is losing its leaves!
Answer: Ficus Benjamin periodically sheds most of its leaves: either overflow or draft. He's too capricious. The lower leaves fall off most often due to excessive waterlogging. The fact that the soil should not DRY (this does not mean that it should not dry out at all, as in a swamp) applies to small creeping ficuses, such as ficus pumila or rooting ficus. Ficus trees, on the contrary, are watered abundantly, and the top layer of soil must dry out between waterings. Roots need air. And on this forum, someone who has a collection of a dozen ficuses said that he waters his ficuses when you stick your finger into the ground on two phalanges and it remains dry. And then you can wait three days. I water it when the soil above becomes dry. In general, Ficus Benjamin loses leaves very easily. They can be thrown off by any changes in conditions of detention. They moved it to a new place and transplanted it. A few leaves are always lost. It's not a disaster. Since it also grows quickly. My Ficus Benjamin has been growing for more than two years and I know from experience that leaf fall very often (or rather, almost always) happens due to:
1) changes in usual conditions: transfer in the fall from the balcony to the room;
2) too much watering in winter - it simply goes catastrophically “bald”. The soil should dry well between waterings;
3) insufficient lighting - my ficus loves the morning sun, and suffers without it in winter. To avoid this, I add iron gelatin to the watering water.
In all these cases, the leaves turn yellow and fall off very quickly.
19. Is it possible to remove some of the roots from Ficus Benjamin when replanting?
Answer: Precisely because it is a tree, I think it’s okay. When forming bonsai, the roots are trimmed a little - and nothing happens. Well, maybe the plant will get sick a little, as a consequence of any transplant.
20. Should I replant ficus from store soil?
Answer: Replant immediately or simply change all the soil. This soil is only suitable for transportation - it retains moisture for a very long time, and, over time, also becomes compacted. When the top layer of soil seems to have dried out, the moisture remains inside for a long time (how else can it be transported?). And ficuses really don’t like waterlogging. It is better to UNDERfill them than to OVERFILL them.
Mulberry family.
In nature, it grows in India, China, South Asia, as well as the Philippines, Hawaii, and Australia.
These are evergreen shrubs and trees. In nature, they grow like our birches, about 20-25 meters in height; at home, ficus benjamina does not grow quickly and will reach 100-120 centimeters in height in about 10 years. Ficus has an invasive root system that spreads not only in depth, but also along the surface of the earth, aerial roots of old plants growing in humid tropical climate, form entire arrays of supports under a wide spreading crown. Indoor ficuses in pots root system strong enough, the roots over time, if you do not add soil, appear above the surface of the earth, but aerial roots do not form.
Ficus benjamina has dark gray bark with brown cross-striations. It branches very well, the shoots are drooping, the leaves are alternate, on short petioles, smooth, shiny, leathery, oblong (elliptical) or lanceolate, pointed at the end, 6-12 centimeters long and 3-6 centimeters wide. The fruits are syconia, about 1.5 centimeters in diameter, paired, axillary, red, burgundy when ripe, inedible. IN room conditions ficus benjamina does not bloom and, accordingly, does not bear fruit. When the petiole is broken, when the leaf is cut, the roots are trimmed, a sticky white milky juice is released.
Temperature
Moderate, optimal for growth within 20-25°C, but by and large, the temperature of ficus benjamina is not important, and it is important that watering corresponds to the temperature - water more often when it is hot and less often when it is cooler. In cool conditions, a moist earthen ball dries slowly and for a long time, and this is very harmful to the ficus. In winter, ideally the temperature should be 16-18°C, with limited watering, a limit of 8-10°C when kept dry. But usually Benjamin ficuses grow well in ordinary home conditions, in heated rooms. If there is not enough light, the plant partially loses its leaves, so during a warm winter you can add additional light to ficus plants, especially variegated varieties.
Lighting
Benjamin ficus grows well in a bright place, with protection from direct sunlight at midday. An eastern window, where the sun comes in the morning or evening, is perfect. Variegated forms need a lighter and warmer place than forms with dark leaves. Only varieties with dark green leaves can grow well in a northern window, while the variegated varieties “Safari” or “Eldorado” need a western window, or a place in close proximity to the southern one, to preserve color; the eastern window is already a bit dark.
Watering
Moderate, ficus does not like waterlogging of the soil; it must be well dried before the next watering. Overmoistening of the ficus benjamina can cause the roots to rot, while the plant simultaneously sheds a large number of leaves that lose color become pale green. Water for irrigation should be soft, room temperature.
Fertilizer feeding
From March to August, once every two to three weeks you can feed ficus benjamina with fertilizers for decorative foliage plants.
Air humidity
The leaves can be sprayed, especially in the summer in hot, dry weather, but ficus benjamina can do without it; it tolerates the dry air of apartments well. But in order to wash off the dust from the leaves, you need to rinse the ficus foliage under a warm shower, while carefully protecting the soil from the stream of water.
How to replant ficus benjamina
Transplantation is carried out annually in spring, into fresh soil. Old specimens are replanted less frequently, every 2-3 years, but you can add fresh fertile soil every year. The soil for ficuses should be loose and nutritious. The following mixture is suitable: 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part peat soil, 1 part sand and 1 part well-decomposed compost. You can also use leaf soil in its pure form; ficus plants also grow well in universal soils from the store. Large, old specimens, which are replanted less often, need heavier and more nutritious soil - the main component is turf soil 2 parts, leaf or greenhouse soil 1 part, you can add chopped pine bark, vermiculite and charcoal. Important condition- good drainage to the bottom of the pot, and the acidity of the soil should be slightly acidic, or close to neutral (pH 5.5-6.5). Ficus does not tolerate alkaline and too acidic substrates.
The pots can be ceramic or clay; they should not be too spacious, and in diameter 2-3 fingers wider than the root ball, or the pot in which the plant was purchased. If it seems to you that the pot has become small (the roots are emerging from the drainage hole), then the ficus benjamina can be replanted again over the summer. If the roots are not cut or torn, then it tolerates replanting well. After transplanting, refrain from watering unless it is too hot for 2 days (if the house is very warm and dry, you can water a little and spray the leaves).
Reproduction of ficus benjamina
The easiest way to propagate ficus benjamina is by cuttings; they easily take root in water, in a bright place at almost any time of the year. Just cut any branches you like about 13-15 cm long, remove the two bottom leaves and place in a jar with clean water. To prevent the water from blooming, cover the jar with an opaque cloth. No growth stimulants are needed. Cuttings of this size already have a woody stem, but if you cut a couple of leaves with a still green stem, it will not take root. Ficus benjamina does not reproduce by leaf, and large branches with thick bark take an extremely long time to take root.
If for some reason the plant has become bald in the lower part of the trunk, it is easier to re-root the crown. For this purpose, not cuttings are used, but air layering:
On the trunk in the right place, the bark is cut and removed, a strip about 1 cm wide. The trunk in this place is wrapped with sphagnum moss soaked in water (it is secured with a thread only for the convenience of photography)
Air layering of ficus benjamina
We cut a plastic cup along the walls into two halves (cut the bottom in half and make a hole along the diameter of the trunk) and fix it on the trunk, securing it with tape. We fill the soil and water it.
Air layering of ficus benjamina
It is advisable to use a transparent glass so that the roots can be seen. The soil in the cup needs to be watered regularly, it should not dry out. The roots on this layer appeared after 3 weeks.
Ficus crown formation
Ficus benjamina itself has a beautiful crown; many varieties do not require any special shaping. However, if the ficus trunk is bare, you can stimulate the formation of new shoots and leaves by pruning. To do this, you can cut off part of the shoots, completely or partially; sometimes it is enough to pinch the tips of the lower branches so that new buds begin to grow. Pruning should be done in spring - early summer. The younger the ficus tree, the easier it is to shape by pruning.
In addition to pruning and pinching, the crown of ficus trees is formed by bending it with wire (to form bonsai and pre-bonsai). Ficus shoots are quite flexible and bend easily, but the thin bark can crack or peel off from the wire, so it is applied loosely and braided wire is used. There should be a gap between the wire and the ficus stems - after all, the plant grows and the branches gain thickness; if the wire is wound tightly, the wire will eventually grow into the bark.
Ficus Baroque is formed using wire; the flexible trunks of the ficus can be bent quite steeply, trying to achieve the chosen bonsai style.
If you are forming a ficus by merging the trunk, then when braiding a pigtail from several trunks, be sure to leave gaps between them so that the trunks can grow in thickness. Drawing by Vitaly Alenkin.
Merging trunks - several rooted cuttings are planted close to each other and wrapped with electrical tape. Part of the electrical tape has been removed and the joints of the trunks are clearly visible. Further shaping is required.
Cuttings of some varieties of ficus benjamin branch reluctantly; single branches look and gain strength slowly, they can stretch upward, even with sufficient lighting, and begin to branch, reaching approximately 30-40 cm in height. Therefore, it is worth pinching and cutting the cuttings at a height of approximately 20 cm.
You can plant several cuttings in a pot and, if the stems are pressed tightly against each other, then for very short term they grow together. You can bring the stems of ficus cuttings closer together using ordinary electrical tape - it is quite plastic and does not injure the bark; it stretches on the growing trunks without growing. About once a month you need to inspect the braid and rewind it if necessary. It is better, of course, for trunks of small diameter, 5-7 mm, to grow together, but thicker ones can also be fused, but the process will take several years.
Another way of forming is to intertwine the trunks with a pigtail or in the manner of a hedge - openwork weaving from the trunks of ficus benjamina. This method is only suitable for young flexible plants. In this case, several large cuttings must be planted in one elongated container at a distance of 5 to 10 cm from each other, strictly in a row. Initially, each trunk grows vertically and is formed into a standard (all lower branches are removed). At approximately a height of 20-25 cm, ficuses can be fixed, tilted, crossing the trunks with each other. Secure with electrical tape or jute.
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Young ficuses of all types need annual replanting, plants older than five years - once every two, three or four years.
The diameter of the pot for small ficuses should be 2 centimeters, and for large ones - 6 centimeters larger than the previous one.
You cannot transplant a small ficus immediately into a large pot, this especially applies to dwarf ficus. This will inevitably lead to acidification of the soil, the root system will rot, and the ficus will die. If you made a mistake with the size of the pot, then replant ficus It's never too late to use another smaller pot.
The deepening of the root collar can negatively affect the leaves: green leaves suddenly begin to fall off, sometimes dark brown spots appear on them.
When replanting the ficus, the soil in the pot should be lightly compacted with your thumbs. Do not leave voids near the roots. However, it is also not worth compacting the soil in the pot too much, because the soil will become too dense, air will not flow to the roots, in this case the tips of the leaves will begin to turn black, and the green leaves may fall off in this case as well.
The lightly compacted soil in the pot after transplanting the ficus will settle after a while, and it will need to be filled to the required level so that the root collar is flush with the ground.
And even throughout the year, if the soil begins to wash away from the upper roots of the ficus due to watering, it is necessary to periodically add soil to the pot.
After transplanting, thoroughly moisten the soil in the pot and remove the ficus in partial shade. The next watering of the ficus should be done only after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried.
A cutting of a ficus tree stands in water for 4 weeks and does not take any roots. Where do I get so many ficus trees from? And into the ground. And so one after another. I rooted ficus cuttings Daniel in the “explosive mixture”. And a few more tips for propagating home ficus plants. Bottle ficuses also lose leaves.
After rooting, white “pimples” appeared on the cuttings, but after another week these pimples seemed to turn from white to brownish, but the roots never appeared. Or simply cut new cuttings and immediately root them in the ground, treating them with rootstock.
And although ficus trees can be cut all year round, the best results will be in late spring and warm weather. summer months. In greenhouses, when cutting ficus plants, the temperature is maintained at 25-30 degrees. 4 weeks is not a critical period for a ficus cutting; I would calmly wait another month.
If you are tormented by doubts, plant them in the ground under a jar, just be careful - don’t overwater them. And as for the fragile roots of ficuses... I had Ali and Benjamin rooted in water, I had to wait a long time. But the roots grew strong. Previously, I was completely illiterate:-[ Now I’ve learned a lot of different things here and am trying to grow roots by air layering... All my Benjamins took root in water very quickly - maybe a week or a week and a half.
I have a ficus robusta growing. I have a side branch of an interesting ficus benjamina, it looks like “Reginald”, but the leaves are also curly. And slow-witted... What about anything in the water besides coal? (Kornevin, zircon?) I had one cutting of a variety of leaves bent in the water...
Ficus propagation
In my garden all the roses and clematis are only cuttings. Under my jar, the ficus once became moldy. And when rooting in water, they say, then the roots have a hard time getting used to the ground. For me, everything rooted in water takes root. The period also depends on the type of ficus. With purely green leaves, roots appear faster and within about 2 weeks. In summer it will be appropriate to water the soil every other day, and in winter - once every 4-5 days. Ficus plants love spraying their leaves with water. It is necessary to wipe dust from the leaves from time to time.
This is an ordinary trunk from a former ficus. Why did cut shoots placed in water stop taking root and simply begin to rot??? My grandmother propagated ficus by cuttings, but first she dried them for 24 hours. Quick question - are you sure that you have gardenia jasmine growing in your aquarium?
Thanks for the advice about ficus! I've already done something - I let the shoots grow bigger and get stronger before cutting them off. It is better to root leaf cuttings in spring and summer, since this requires warmth and a lot of light (without the sun).
If you place such a cutting in a jar of water on a bright window and change the water often, then after a while roots will appear on it. Ficus lyre-shaped. In the lyre-shaped ficus, the apical stalk 10-15 cm long is cut obliquely at an angle. The bottom leaf is removed, and the rest are collected in a tube to reduce evaporation.
Over time, the ficus crown will become denser due to the growth of side shoots, and you will get another new plant. Only after all the operations have been carried out and when the moss has densely sprouted roots, should the top be carefully separated from the mother plant and planted in a separate pot. The aerial roots of some epiphytic ficuses are capable of tightly entwining the trunk of the host tree, causing its death (the so-called strangling ficuses).
Uses Many types of ficus - useful plants. In rain forests, ficus fruits are the main food source for mammals and birds, and leaves and wood for insects. Place Ficus does not like change, so it is better to immediately determine a permanent place for it and, if possible, not move, move or disturb it. In summer, ficus can be taken out into the fresh air, onto a balcony or terrace. When there is insufficient lighting, ficus internodes lengthen, growth slows down, and leaves fall off.
Ficus propagation at home
Ficus will survive wintering better in a warm and dry living room if it is provided with additional lighting and spraying. You should not set a rigid schedule for watering your ficus because external conditions(lighting, temperature, humidity) are constantly changing, affecting the intensity of moisture consumption by the plant. Bottle ficuses Ficus palmeri (Ficus palmeri), Ficus petiolaris (Ficus petiolaris) require strong drying of the soil between waterings to form a thickened trunk.
How to propagate ficus by air layering
Substrate For very young ficuses, a light and permeable soil mixture is traditionally made up of leaf soil, peat and sand in equal proportions. Adult ficuses require denser soil, so turf soil and humus are added to the substrate.
A good drainage layer of expanded clay and pieces of charcoal in the soil will protect the plant from stagnant water and rotting roots. Dormant period Almost all types of ficus from October to February are characterized by a forced dormant period associated with a lack of light and a decrease in temperature.
Fertilizer Regimes and rates of fertilizer application depend on the substrate and time of year. When growing ficus in an inert substrate, fertilizers are applied year-round. Vegetation during this period is undesirable, since there is not enough light, heat and moisture, and stimulating the ficus to grow leads to the formation of weak and elongated shoots.
Hello. Please tell me what should I do with my cuttings? I transplanted them into a small pot of cactus soil. Now I don’t know whether these “pimples” have rotted for some reason and there’s no point in waiting for roots at all, or just wait for now... If the cutting looks normal, then it will definitely give roots - where should it go?
Ficus benjamina. Reproduction this type cuttings. In winter, ficus is not fertilized. Roots formed in water take a long time to get used to the soil and can generally die off, this happened to me, especially in ficus with leaves with white edges. Faster rooting occurs if the cut ficus cuttings are immediately placed in a mini-greenhouse. If the ficus has grown to the ceiling, and the leaves remain mainly only at the top, then you can simply shorten it.
