Hipperastrum is one of the most beautiful flowering houseplants. Its flowers appear on windowsills in the dead of winter. These are large, bell-shaped flowers that vary in color, from pure white to dark burgundy, almost black. Caring for this plant is not difficult, although some nuances are required in order for the hippeastrum to bloom and reproduce stably at home.
Hippeastrum is a large bulb from which grow strap-shaped, dark green leaves. Later, a flower arrow appears, which, as a rule, rises above the leaves.
This plant is very often confused with amaryllis, with which it is very similar in appearance. But they are quite easy to distinguish: the main feature is that the hippeastrum has a hollow stem, while the amaryllis does not.
The most beautiful and popular varieties of hippeastrum
Currently, there are more than 1000 varieties of hippeastrum in the world, which are distinguished by a variety of colors and flower shapes.
The most popular and beautiful varieties:
Hippeastrum Pappilo
Hippeastrum Papilio - has a very unusual petal shape and striped color. Inside, the petals are burgundy in color, which gradually turns white and green.
Hippeastrum Elvas
Hippeastrum Elvas is a very beautiful, double variety, with petals that change color from burgundy inside to light pink outside.
Hippeastrum Red Peacock
Hippeastrum Red Peacock is a semi-double hippeastrum with scarlet flowers.
Hippeastrum-appl-blossom
Hippeastrum Apple Blossom - has white and pink flowers, different large size. Apple blossom is one of the most common varieties.
HippeastrumGalaxyMinerva
Hippestrum Minerva is a variety with simple red flowers with a white star in the middle.
Caring for hippeastrum at home
To enjoy the flowering of hippeastrum for many years, you need to know how to care for it.
Caring for hippeastrum involves the following activities:
Growing
The pot for hippeastrum is chosen to be deep and of small diameter; ideally it should be only a few centimeters larger than the diameter of the bulbs. They should be deep, because the bulb has quite long fleshy roots.
When planting, the bulb should not be buried; at most, the neck of the bulb should be at ground level, but it is better if 1/2 to 1/3 of the bulb rises above the soil surface.
Photo of planting hippeastrum in a pot
The soil chosen is loose and nutritious; fine expanded clay must be placed at the bottom of the pot, since the roots of the plant are sensitive to stagnation of water. It is for this reason that you need to ensure that after watering the water does not stagnate in the saucer.
You can use any pots for planting, plastic or ceramic.
Please note that when growing varieties with tall, massive arrows in plastic pots, care must be taken to weigh the pot down so that it does not tip over under the weight of the plant.
Location
To grow hippeastrum, choose the brightest places. Window sills are ideal for this. Since hippeastrum blooms in winter time, then it can be grown even on southern windows.
After the arrow has fully grown and the buds have formed on it, the flower pot can be moved to the back of the room.
Watering
During the period of active growth, which begins in January-December, the plant requires regular watering; the soil in the pot should not dry out.
Water the hippeastrum with settled water room temperature. If watering will be carried out cold water, this can lead to rotting of the roots and slower growth of the flower arrow.
You can sometimes give a flower a warm shower, but only if there are no buds, that is, until the veil on the flower shoot opens, under which the buds are hidden.
Top dressing
During the period of growth of green mass, and especially flower shoots, you need to regularly feed the hippeastrum with mineral complex fertilizer. Feeding should be done once every two weeks.
Before fertilizing, you need to thoroughly water the soil in the pot so that the fertilizer does not burn the tender roots of the bulb.
It is not advisable to feed hippeastrum with organic fertilizer, because the bulb may begin to fatten and grow leaves, but not bloom.
The last feeding is carried out after flowering, but before the flower arrow dries.
During the dormant period, even if the plant has not shed its leaves, there is no need to feed it.
Transfer
Replanting should be done annually, keeping the plant for a maximum of two years without replacing the soil.
The plant is replanted before active growth begins, during the period when new roots begin to appear at the bottom of the bulb; by this time, almost all of the old ones have dried out and must be carefully removed.
After transplantation, the plant is watered very carefully and in small quantities, only to maintain low soil moisture. Otherwise, the bulb may not have time to grow a sufficient number of roots, which will consume water and the soil will begin to turn sour, and the bottom of the plant may rot due to excess moisture.
Reproduction of hippeastrum
Hippeastrum is propagated either by seeds or by baby bulbs produced by the mother bulb.
Seed propagation is suitable only for breeding purposes, since seedlings obtained this way will not repeat the parental qualities. Therefore, to preserve the varietal identity, hippeastrum must be propagated vegetatively.
Rest period
For annual flowering, hippeastrum bulbs need to be provided with an annual dormant period after each flowering. The method of preserving the plant during the dormant period is chosen based on its biological characteristics and the preferences of the grower.
You can provide rest to the plant in the following ways:
- Leave the bulb after flowering in the same pot, and determine its place depending on whether it completely sheds its leaves or not. If a few leaves remain on the bulb, then the pot continues to be kept in a bright place; if the bulb has dropped all the leaves and fallen asleep, it is transferred to storage in a dark, dry place for 2-3 months, occasionally spraying the ground.
- You can also force the bulbs to go to rest after flowering. To do this, after the flower arrow dries, the plant stops watering and after a while all the leaves dry out. After this, the bulbs are removed from the ground, wrapped in several layers of paper and stored in a dark, dry place. Periodically checking that they do not start to grow.
- Another way to give the plant a rest is to plant it in the summer. open ground. But you need to choose the sunniest place, without stagnant moisture. It is also necessary to have time to dig up the plant before the onset of cold weather. This is a rather troublesome method, but if all agricultural technology conditions are met, the hippeastrum increases the mass of the bulb and blooms more readily and abundantly.
How to make hippeastrum bloom at the right time
Hippeastrum is a very flexible plant and you can adjust the timing of its flowering by moving it to the summer or to a certain date.
To successfully force hippeastrum, you must follow the following rules:
- The largest bulb is selected for forcing; it will produce a good flower shoot with a large number of buds. Depending on the variety, there may be 2-3 arrows.
- Before forcing, the bulb must rest for at least 1.5-2 months.
- When forcing, the bulbs are buried only halfway;
- The pot with the bulb is placed in the warmest and brightest place, but is not watered so that the growth of leaves does not begin, which will delay the start of flowering.
- Ideally, the flower arrow will appear in two weeks, and after another two or three, the first flower will bloom.
- Knowing the approximate timing, you can calculate the flowering of hippeastrum by a certain date.
After flowering is over, the bulb is cared for as in normal cultivation.
NOTE
You cannot use the same bulb two or more times in a row; it is best to send forced bulbs to a long rest.
Diseases and pests of hippeastrum
The most common and dangerous disease of hippeastrum is stanogospois or red burn. This disease is infectious and if elimination measures are not taken in time, the entire collection can become infected. Stanogospoiz manifests itself in redness of the scales of the bulb; at first it is almost imperceptible and expressed in spots. Then all the scales turn red. The last stage is rotting of the affected area. The disease can manifest itself on both the upper and inner scales.
In the photo, a hippeastrum bulb infected with a red burn
Many gardeners believe that a bulb affected by this disease cannot be cured and it is better to destroy it. But this is not true, especially if the disease has just begun.
Treatment of a red burn:
- It is necessary to cut out all the affected areas, or even better, completely remove the affected scales;
- If the lesion comes close to the bottom, then these places should also be cut off;
- After each circumcision, you need to wipe the knife with cotton wool soaked in alcohol or another disinfectant solution;
- Then soak the bulbs in a solution of potassium permanganate or the preparations Maxim, Khom;
- If it was not possible to cure the bulb the first time, then the entire procedure must be repeated after 3-4 weeks.
When treating this disease, it is better to remove more scales, even if the bulb becomes very small and will not be removed for several years, but this is preferable to losing it, especially when we're talking about about expensive varieties.
The main reason for the appearance of red burn is considered to be excess humidity at low temperatures; this is especially important to pay attention to if the bulbs are planted outside during the rest period.
Other diseases and pests of hippeastrum
- Rooting of the root system as a result of excessive watering. It can be identified by its appearance - the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the bulb becomes sluggish and soft. It is treated by removing the plant from the soil and removing all affected parts.
- Thrips. The presence of this pest manifests itself in the form of white spots on the leaves. They are controlled with conventional insecticides;
- The scale leaves brown and yellow tubercles on the leaves. You can treat the leaves with an insecticide or alcohol solution.
- The narcissus fly is another pest of the hippeastrum. She lays her larvae in the axils of the leaves, and they begin to eat the bulb from the inside. The drugs Aktara, Zemlin, and Mukhoed help well against narcissus fly larvae.
Although hippeastrum requires some attention when growing, its magnificent flowering fully justifies all the time and effort spent on it.
Many gardeners who have recently acquired a hippeastrum indoor plant? They often ask if he needs a period of rest. The hippeastrum should subside. This will allow you to regulate its flowering period and improve vegetative development.
The rest period of the hippeastrum - when it occurs and how it proceeds
When and how should hippeastrum be put to sleep and why does hippeastrum need a rest period:
- hippeastrum needs a rest period to regulate flowering and normal development- anyone will say something like that experienced florist. You need to put to rest those bulbs that bloomed in the spring. Young bulbs (under three years of age) do not need to be sent to rest. In some cases, hippeastrum blooms once in the spring, and a second time closer to October-November. In this case, the hippeastrum bulb is put to rest if it does not send out new leaves after flowering. This can be checked by spreading the middle of the crown at the base of the leaves. If no new forcing is expected there and the hippeastrum does not bloom, then the plant can be prepared for sleep;
- The hippeastrum is prepared for the rest period as follows: it is NOT WATERED AT ALL. They start doing this in mid-September. By the end of September, the plant with its lush crown is moved to a dark and cool place where there is no sun rays at all or their amount is minimal. The room temperature should not rise above 13 degrees. In such conditions, the leaves of the hippeastrum begin to dry out and, as they become dead, they are removed. It is not recommended to cut off the still green leaves and thus forcibly send the hippeastrum into a dormant period. All nutrients from the leaves must go to the bulb. By cutting off the green leaves, you deprive the bulb of a significant supply of nutrients. As a result, the plant, even if it has planted a flowering arrow, will bloom sparingly and instead of 4-5 buds it will throw out only 1 or 2 pieces;
- the dormant period of the hippeastrum begins when it begins to shed its leaves. They lose color and begin to dry out. As a result, the plant loses its entire crown. Hippeastrum without foliage should be kept in a dark and cool place until January-February. At this time, the bulb cannot be watered, otherwise it will rot;
- the dormant period of the hippeastrum ends when it begins to throw out a flower-bearing arrow. If this does not happen, the plant begins to wake up on its own. It is taken out to a warm and well-lit place and carefully watered. In this case, you don’t need a lot of liquid, again, so that the onion doesn’t rot.
Hippeastrums in the garden in summer. In such cases, they are dug up in September and transferred from the soil in pots to a warm room. However, there is no need to stimulate the further development of the plant (growth of a green crown) at home. It is better to immediately move the pot with the plant to a dark and cool place and wait until the flower begins to shed its leaves. During the same period, it is possible to separate the adult bulb from possible children that formed in the summer.
Hippeastrum needs care after flowering, because it is during this period that the plant actively restores lost strength. The leaves continue to grow and nourish the bulb, so it is necessary to provide all the conditions for the further development of the flower. If everything is done correctly, then the grateful hippeastrum will delight you with beautiful buds not just once a year, but several times.
Hippeastrum is a flower that can shoot out buds with almost complete absence of leaves. But when the plant fades, its green mass, on the contrary, begins to quickly and actively develop, reaching half a meter in length. During flowering, the bulb gives all its strength to the flower and loses weight - you can verify this by pulling it out of the pot after the buds have withered.
The size of the bulbs directly affects the number of future arrows - large specimens can produce several of them. At the same time, they direct all the nutrients to the development of buds. Growing and then fading leaves on the hippeastrum after flowering allow you to replenish the supply of components, so it is especially important to monitor their health.
How to care for hippeastrum after flowering at home
Constant monitoring of the condition of the flower in the pot and comprehensive care for it guarantee future successful flowering of the hippeastrum. Particular attention should be paid to the arrow with faded buds.
What to do with the peduncle
Under no circumstances should you immediately cut off the arrow at the root; this is quite risky. You can damage the bulb, causing it to rot and die. You should do this with the arrow of a flower - cut it in several stages:
- Fading flowers should be removed immediately, thereby preventing the extraction of useful substances;
- After the flowers wither, the arrow is cut to a height of 10-15 cm above the bulb (a small stump remains);
- Then you need to wait for the arrow to dry completely;
- The dried arrow is painlessly removed - to do this, it is turned around its axis and removed from the pot.
After removing the peduncle, new green leaves will begin to form on the bulb, but their appearance will be quite slow - about 1 piece per month.
How to water
Before you start actively watering the hippeastrum, which will help it quickly restore its lost strength, you need to partially replace the soil. To do this, about 3 cm of the top layer of the old substrate is removed. Instead, new soil of the same composition is poured into the pot (usually the soil consists of turf, leaf soil, humus, sand along with peat in a ratio of 2:1:1:1).
- You need to make sure that water does not get on the bulb itself and the growing leaves;
- For irrigation, settled water at room temperature is used;
- The soil should be moistened moderately, excluding overwatering (this can cause rotting of the roots and bulbs);
- Instead of top watering, you can use bottom watering, filling the tray.
How to fertilize
Caring for hippeastrum after flowering also includes fertilizing the soil. Typically, fertilizing is carried out together with watering - for this, the complex composition is combined with water, dissolving in it. You can also fertilize moistened soil in a pot.
Any fertilizer for flowering indoor or bulbous plants, which contains potassium and phosphorus in high concentrations, is suitable as a top dressing. These components will help the hippeastrum bulb recover faster and re-release the peduncle.
The frequency of fertilizing depends on the condition of the flower:
- For heavily damaged plants, it is recommended to apply fertilizer 4 times a month (every week);
- If the hippeastrum feels normal, the number of feedings is reduced to two per month (every 2 weeks).
You can use not only liquid, but also dry fertilizer formulations. It is best if the hippeastrum stands on a warm and well-lit windowsill during the period of feeding and leaf growth.
How to send hippeastrum “to rest”
From time to time, the hippeastrum needs rest. Therefore, when it has bloomed, then a dormant period is organized for the bulb according to the following scheme:
- The bulb is carefully examined and only if it is dense and healthy can the flower be sent to rest.
- After all the leaves turn yellow and dry out, watering stops.
- The hippeastrum is placed in a place where several conditions are met:
- Lack of direct sunlight, darkness;
- Temperature within 10-18 degrees Celsius (optimally 15 degrees);
- Without large quantity moisture.
The duration of the dormant period can vary for individual varieties from 1 to 3 months. Some hippeastrum hybrids do not shed leaves and are always in the active phase, and therefore do not require “rest” for the bulb.
During the dormant period, it is recommended to water the plant once - after the earthen clod has completely dried. And then you need to periodically moisten the soil by spraying it with a spray bottle. Hippeastrum should be kept in a dark room all the time. Only after the bulb sends out a peduncle, the plant is placed in the light and normal watering is resumed.
Some gardeners practice alternating periods of flowering and dormancy, which helps achieve more frequent growth of shoots and buds at home. Such hippeastrums can delight their owner several times a year, sometimes even quarterly.
However, it is worth remembering: if the leaves of the hippeastrum do not turn yellow or fall off, then there is no need to force it to sleep.
Hippeastrums are famous for their luxurious flowers different forms and colors. And although the flowering of this indoor bulbous crop lasts up to a month and can be repeated up to three times a year, the flowers inevitably fade, and only leathery elongated leaves remain above the soil surface. Then they too may turn yellow.
Vegetation of hippeastrum after flowering
The flowering of hippeastrum requires enormous strength from the plant, therefore, after the huge flowers wither, the bulb is in dire need of restoration. And this extremely important period with a single flowering usually lasts nine months. If the hippeastrum is transplanted after flowering, you will find that the bulb has noticeably lost weight and the upper scales have lost their elasticity.
Growing leaves and intensive feeding during the growing season will help the plant regain its former strength and lay the beginnings of future flower stalks:
- As the flowers fade, the arrows are cut off, leaving 10–15 cm above the bulb. Then, when the arrow is dry, it is unscrewed with a slight turn around its axis.
- Leaves appear gradually, approximately one every 3–4 weeks.
As during the flowering period, during the growing season the plants are watered abundantly and always fed. Watering is carried out carefully, on soil that has dried up from the previous time, without getting on the foliage and bulb:
- IN room conditions you can pour water into the pan, making sure that the moisture does not stagnate and the roots remain healthy.
- If the hippeastrum is planted in the garden after flowering, a shallow trench is made in the soil around the bulb, where it is placed.
Fertilizing is carried out in moist soil or combined with watering. Regular application of liquid fertilizers, especially potassium and phosphorus, will help quickly restore strength to the bulb
After flowering, fertilizing is provided at least 2 times a month; for seriously weakened and young plants, they are made more frequent, for example, once a week.
Complex formulations for ornamental flowering or bulbous plants can be used as fertilizer.
Rest period for hippeastrum
Traditionally, the hibernation period for hippeastrum is arranged in the fall and early winter. It takes two to three months for the bulb to recuperate and set flower buds. The exact duration cannot be known in advance, since it depends on the intensity of the previous flowering and the care of the hippeastrum after it.
A sign of readiness for dormancy can be the wilting of leaves on a tight, large bulb. However, today there are a number of varieties and hybrids that practically do not lose leaves. In this case, you can notice that new leaf plates no longer appear:
- At the end of the growing season for hippeastrum, watering is reduced, and in September or October it is completely stopped.
- The last feeding is carried out 4 weeks before the plants are sent into hibernation.
If the hippeastrum goes into retirement after flowering in September or early October, then by New Year's holidays you can expect that a strong bulb will produce a new peduncle. For this period of time, the South American winter is simulated for the plant, providing:
- lack of lighting;
- temperature within 12–14 °C;
- low air humidity, not higher than 60%;
- extremely sparing watering to prevent the roots from dying off.
For young, non-blooming bulbs and children, a dormant period is not needed. If plants of different ages grow in the same container, it is better to plant them before hibernation.
This will prevent the plant from being damaged by replanting when it comes out of the dormant period, and will give the bulb additional nutrition. Usually, after flowering, hippeastrums go into “hibernation” and are transplanted in a pot. But you can also dig up the bulbs. In this case, they are stored on their side, without cutting off the foliage and sprinkled with sawdust. The temperature regime is the same, that is, 12–14 °C. Often with this method it is possible to achieve earlier flowering, but there is a risk of losing the bulb due to drying out.
- If it is dense and has grown over the summer, the plant has completed its rest and is ready to bloom.
- But if its scales are sluggish, the grower made a mistake and sent the bulb into “hibernation” early. It is better to replant such a plant and continue to actively feed and water it.
Only healthy, dense bulbs that have fully recovered during the growing season should be sent to rest.
Such a hippeastrum will wake up on its own in a few weeks, releasing a powerful peduncle or the first leaf.
How to grow hippeastrum - video
How to care for hippeastrum, observing all conditions of maintenance and home care... This tropical bulbous plant impresses with the size of its bell-shaped flowers (diameter up to 20 cm) and the bright pink-red color of the petals, thanks to its simple care.
Hippeastrum is often mistaken for amaryllis and vice versa. Indeed, both plants are very similar in appearance, however, these are two different genera of the same Amaryllis family! Hippeastrum is translated from Greek as “cavalier star”.
The main and reliable difference from amaryllis is the different structure of the peduncle stem. When you cut the peduncle of a faded plant, look at its cut: the tubular hollow structure of the peduncle will tell you that this is a hippeastrum.
In color, the flowers of hybrid hippeastrums can be white, pink-red, orange, cream, and the color can be in the form of a multi-color pattern, strokes, dots; according to the shape of the inflorescence - double or simple.
Hippeastrum is one of the best forcing plants because it can be easily forced at home. With a little knowledge and skills in growing and caring, you can regulate the process and timing of obtaining flowers.
A climate close to tropical, subtropical with bright but diffuse lighting is quite suitable for it. Favorable temperatures in summer time considered 20-25⁰С. In winter, hippeastrum requires a period of rest and a decrease in air temperature to 12-15⁰C.
Under normal home conditions, hippeastrums bloom in late winter or in early spring, amaryllis - in autumn. Often there is a repeated wave of flowering of large bulbs...
For hippeastrum to bloom, planting needs to be planned:
- in December-January - for October,
- in February-March - for January,
- in April-May - for March.
But already 2 months before the planned planting, you need to prepare the bulb for the dormant period (forcing). And for this you need to lower the temperature and stop watering. From the moment of planting to the beginning of flowering in early dates plants need 6-7 weeks, for later forcing - 3-5 weeks.
Preparing hippeastrum for dormancy and storage.
In winter, hippeastrum hibernates only as indoor plant with a pronounced dormant period from about the end of October to the beginning of February.
At the end of August - September, they gradually stop feeding and begin to reduce the number of waterings until they stop completely by the end of October - November, or at least in December. By this time, the hippeastrum will begin to gradually shed its leaves, and the nutrients from them will naturally pass into the bulb.
Leaves that have not yet withered should not be specially trimmed in order to preserve nutrients for subsequent flowering. Sometimes there are one or two unwilted leaves left on the bulb; they can be cut off or carefully bent so that they do not interfere with storage on racks in a cool place.
In a dormant state, the bulbs do not need lighting; they usually retain living roots, so they need to be watered a little occasionally (once every 3-4 weeks). Pots with resting bulbs are kept at a temperature of about +5...+12 °C for at least 8-10 weeks.
7-10 weeks before the desired date, for example, Valentine's Day or March 8th, bring the pots with rested bulbs into a warmer and brighter room and water them a little. Further abundance of watering should be adjusted depending on the intensity of foliage growth, temperature and dryness of the surrounding air, as well as the humidity of the earthen clod.
How to make hippeastrum bloom for the New Year.
To please yourself and your loved ones New Year a beautiful bright scarlet star with a delicate scent and persistent character, place a small pot with a planted hippeastrum bulb on your window in October.
To do this, at the beginning of September, I chose a strong onion from those that I had and stopped watering it for 7 weeks. Then she cut off the dried leaves, shook off the roots from the ground and planted them in a pot that had a slightly larger diameter than the bulb itself. It grows well on a mixture of peat and soil; it is advisable to sprinkle expanded clay or sand on the bottom.
To achieve the first arrow, you need to keep the soil in the pot slightly moist. When the sprout appears, it is advisable to water the plant more abundantly. And after 1-2 months, hippeastrum will delight you with its luxurious lily flowers.
Flowering will last 3-4 weeks. During this time, you need to feed the flower at least once. Hippeastrum is suitable for complete mineral fertilizers or a solution of mullein one in ten.
After flowering has ended, it is better to cut off dried hippeastrum flowers, place the pot in a well-lit place and water it moderately. The peduncle should not be cut off, but should be allowed to dry out on its own to maintain nutrients.
Before the next flowering in the fall, hippeastrum is given a period of rest, then the growing season will be at the most favorable time - spring-summer, when there is maximum light.
If you don’t do this, but rather actively fertilize the bulb all year round, then you can get a delicate bouquet of your favorite flowers by March 8th.
Usually, an adult bulb is transplanted into new soil in the month of October and wait for the unforgettable southern star to rise against the backdrop of our almost always dark winter sky.
One fundamental note on the care and maintenance of hippeastrum...
As a rule, each bulb produces one or two long flower shoots with 4-6 huge flowers, reaching 20 cm in diameter, sometimes more. Sometimes a well-developed bulb produces a third arrow, but it is better to remove it at its earliest development.
Younger hippeastrum bulbs that have not reached 3-4 years of age are not recommended to forcibly shed their leaves, although in winter they also have their own dormant period with limited watering. Everything must happen naturally. The time will come and the hippeastrum itself will decide when to bloom.
The bulb should be smooth and heavy, with good living roots and dry scales of a brownish-golden hue. They are able to live and bloom for 20 years or more, and if you properly care for the hippeastrum bulbs, then the wonderful color of the indoor “lily” can be observed twice a year.
Hippeastrum transplantation and appropriate care.
Adult bulbous hippeastrum plants are replanted every 2-3 years, immediately after flowering. Young bulbs are planted annually in early spring with a complete replacement of the soil or transshipment. Hippeastrum blooms more readily and much faster in cramped containers.
Depending on the size of the bulb, choose a fairly heavy pot, 15-20 cm in size, so as not to tip over during flowering. Can be planted in a small group at a distance of 10 cm from each other in a slightly larger container or container.
For planting, we take an earthen mixture consisting of approximately equal parts of turf, leaf, humus soil and sand. Shake off the roots old land, and those that have rotted in an old pot or dried out during long-term storage are removed.
At the bottom of the pot we make a drainage layer of 1-2 cm, pour a mound of soil and place the onion on it. Having carefully straightened the roots, we fill about a third or up to the middle of the bulb with soil. Compact the soil and water through the pan.
When transplanting, do not forget to separate the baby. Sometimes it has to be broken off or cut off. We plant the baby in a separate pot, just like an adult plant. At proper care Hippeastrum babies usually bloom around the third or fourth year.
