We sowed or planted most of the plants in the spring and it seems that in the middle of summer we can already relax. But experienced gardeners know that July is the time to plant vegetables to obtain a late harvest and the possibility of longer storage. This also applies to potatoes. It is better to use the early summer potato harvest quickly; it is not suitable for long-term storage. But the second harvest of potatoes is exactly what is needed for winter and spring use.
Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably well lying on the ground, but this experience should not be repeated in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, garter. My neighbors use all sorts of stakes, tie-downs, loops, ready-made plant supports and mesh fencing. Each method of fixing a plant in a vertical position has its own advantages and “ side effects" I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises and what comes out of it.
Bulgur with pumpkin is an every day dish that can be easily prepared in half an hour. Bulgur is boiled separately, the cooking time depends on the size of the grains - whole and coarse grinding takes about 20 minutes, fine grinding literally a few minutes, sometimes the cereal is simply poured with boiling water, like couscous. While the cereal is cooking, prepare the pumpkin in sour cream sauce, and then combine the ingredients. If you replace melted butter vegetable, and sour cream - soy cream, then it can be included in the Lenten menu.
Flies are a sign of unsanitary conditions and vectors infectious diseases, dangerous for both people and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of unpleasant insects. In this article we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly repellents and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of products to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and at no extra cost.
Summer months- time of flowering of hydrangeas. This beautiful deciduous shrub produces luxuriously fragrant flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty of a flowering hydrangea bush in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. We will explain why this happens in the article.
Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects appearance and plant yield, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.
Garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, are one of the early aromatic berries that summer generously gifts us with. How happy we are about this harvest! In order for the “berry boom” to repeat every year, we need to take care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). The laying of flower buds, from which ovaries will form in the spring and berries in the summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.
Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory appetizer for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds have been pickled since time immemorial, but this process is labor-intensive and time-consuming. According to my recipe, you can simply prepare pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and by the evening the spicy appetizer will be ready. Watermelon marinated with spices and chili can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of safety - when chilled, this snack is simply licking your fingers!
Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest one - the blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Blushing stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also a strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.
Thick chickpea soup with vegetables and egg is a simple recipe for a hearty first course, inspired by oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, and Southeast Asian countries. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your taste. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in clarified butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter, it's certainly not the same, but it tastes similar.
Plum - well, who isn’t familiar with it?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, surprises with excellent yields, pleases with its diversity in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, in some places it feels better, in others it feels worse, but almost no summer resident gives up the pleasure of growing it on his plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in the middle zone, but also in the Urals and Siberia.
Many ornamental and fruit crops, except drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period suffer from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from the snow. In this article we will tell you about a unique product for protecting plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. In February and early March, the sun's rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.
“Every vegetable has its own time,” and every plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has dealt with planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in the spring the plants have not yet begun to grow rapidly, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop such that planting has to be carried out in the midst of summer.
Chili con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texas and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and shredded beef. In addition to the main products there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, scalding, very filling and amazingly tasty! You can make a big pot, put it in containers and freeze - you'll have a delicious dinner for a whole week.
Cucumber is one of the most favorite garden crops of our summer residents. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get a really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell you in the article. An important point in the agricultural technology of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.
Fighting aphids in the garden is not a very pleasant process, but don’t give your harvest to them to eat. Yesterday, as usual, I came to the dacha with my granddaughter. I picked a few cucumbers for her in the garden and noticed that some of the lower leaves of the shoots seemed to curl inward. I looked at the sheet with reverse side, gasped - aphids! Yes, so much! How to fight aphids? I decided to check the rest of the plants in the garden. What did you see?! Aphids on cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins! Aphids on raspberries and roses! On the plum! Guard! In fact, our weather now is favorable for the development of all types of aphids - hot, and the humidity is high, since almost every day it's raining. Well, they oohed and aahed, but something needs to be done.
Aphids cause leaf deformation:
Yes, aphids not only feed on plant sap, but are also carriers various diseases. Plants damaged by aphids develop poorly, are stunted, the leaves are deformed, and various spots appear on them.
Aphids on cucumbers 
Aphids on zucchini 
Aphids on a young plum tree I walked around the area, looked under almost every leaf - there were aphids everywhere. How could I have missed it? After all, it didn’t actually occupy my entire garden in one day?
I noticed a lacewing on the dill inflorescences. This is a small fly of a pale lime color with large transparent wings and long antennae. Refers to beneficial insects. Lacewing larvae feed on aphids. I noticed on some zucchini ladybugs, the larvae of which also readily eat aphids.
Just in one of the issues of our regional newspaper for gardeners and gardeners “Niva Kubani” I read that before starting to treat plants against aphids, it is necessary to count these insects. If, for example, there are 5 lacewing larvae or 30 ladybird larvae per 1 aphid individual, then it is better not to use any drugs to control aphids. They say that beneficial insects will cope with pests themselves.
Natural enemy of aphids But, to be honest, I don’t know what the larvae of lacewings and ladybugs look like, and the eternal lack of time and lack of skills do not allow me to estimate their ratio to the number of aphids. I only learned one thing - since they exist (our natural helpers), it is better to use biological preparations to combat aphids that will not harm lacewings or ladybugs.
In the same newspaper, a plant protection specialist advises using the biological preparation bitoxibacillin.
The proportions for preparing the solution are as follows: dissolve 40-100 g of the drug in a bucket of water, spray it on vegetable or fruit plants.
The specific amount of bitoxybacillin powder that needs to be dissolved depends on the type of plant and the type of pest. This drug is effective not only against aphids, but also the Colorado potato beetle, various caterpillars, and spider mites. One caveat when preparing the solution is to first dilute the powder in a small amount of water, let it dissolve, and then add it to a bucket of water.
In addition to bitoxibacillin, other biological insecticides can be used against aphids - acarin, fitoverm.
My cucumbers are already hanging and turning green, the zucchini is pouring, the raspberries are ripe - I need to treat them with chemicals, my hand can’t turn. How to spray cucumbers and zucchini against aphids? Therefore, while biological preparations to combat aphids have not been purchased, I decided to prepare an infusion of celandine - fortunately, it grows a lot in secluded corners of the garden. This is a strong drug against aphids. Narwhal celandine, filled the bucket 2/3, poured cold water. I left it to brew until the morning.
By the way, you can read about other folk remedies for fighting aphids.
This morning I treated everything with celandine infusion, and in the evening I walked around the garden again - it seemed to help. At least I don’t see ants on cucumbers or plums. And once the ants left, then all the aphids died - they have nothing to eat.
But I must warn you that if favorable development conditions for aphids remain, then you may have to treat garden and vegetable plants more than once or resort to chemicals.
For example, roses, raspberries after harvest, young fruit trees, if there are no fruits on them, can be treated with chemicals. Effective in the fight against aphids - Fufanon, Kemifos, Iskra-M, Alatar, Inta Ts-M, Konfidor Extra, Aktara.
Tomatoes, cucumbers and fruits can be treated against aphids with Fitoverm - a biological insecticide - it does not accumulate in the fruits and is not dangerous to humans.
I wish you success in the fight against aphids!
It is very difficult to fight aphids, since this pest multiplies very rapidly. One female produces three generations of several hundred thousand individuals in just a month, which begin to produce offspring at the same speed. Aphids in the garden usually attack young shoots and leaves of plants in early summer. During this period, you can fight aphids without pesticides by using folk remedies for aphids. Simply washing the leaves with a stream of water, lowering the affected shoots or branches into a bucket of water and washing them, or wiping the leaves with a cotton swab soaked in water can help.
Aphids on peppers.
Wood ash
Tobacco infusion
Infusion of onion and garlic
Celandine
Yarrow
Horse sorrel
Dandelion
Tomato tops
Potato tops
Chemicals
www.ysadba.org This aphid has a host plant bell pepper. Aphids resemble a herd of cows from a bird's eye view. Sucking more juice from the plant than it can absorb, it secretes and leaves a sweetish liquid (honeydew) on the plant. Its “shepherds” - black ants - feed on it. They protect their “cows” in every possible way.
After washing the leaves, branches and shoots, or regardless of this, the plants are treated with any solution: soap, ash-soap, or infusions and decoctions of insecticidal and phytoncidal herbs. The first of them are inedible for aphids or are poisonous, the second - repel aphids with their smell. Soap is added to infusions and decoctions for greater effect, 40 g per bucket of infusion or decoction. These folk remedies for aphids are now becoming increasingly popular. They are used in organic farming and growing environmentally friendly products. Treatment of plants against aphids in the garden is carried out in the evening in dry weather, evenly spraying the plants, especially the leaves on the back side, where the insect likes to settle. After rains or after 7-10 days, the treatment is repeated. Repeated processing is the main disadvantage of this method of combating aphids.
How to fight aphids without pesticides. Folk remedies from aphids.
Aphids in the garden attack various plants and come in different types, sizes, black, green, brown colors. Despite this, you can fight various aphids using the same methods with the difference that vegetable crops are treated no later than 30 days before harvesting, berry crops are sprayed before flowering and after harvesting, fruit crops are sprayed during budding, immediately after flowering and 2-3 weeks before harvest. Be careful when working with some poisonous plants. Although plant infusions and decoctions are not chemicals, they are dangerous not only for aphids, but also for other insects, and can also cause burns to the plant, some are poisonous to humans. They must be used sparingly, following the recipe. After treating plants with infusions of tomato, potato, tobacco, black henbane and dope, they can be eaten only after 10 days. Here are some folk recipes for preparing infusions, decoctions and solutions to combat aphids without pesticides.
Soap solution. To prepare a soap solution, dissolve 300 g of laundry (or 100 liquid) soap in 10 liters of water. Soap can be grated.
Ash-soap solution. 150-300 g of ash is poured into 10 liters hot water, bring to a boil and add 40 g of soap to the warm solution.
Potato tops. Finely chop green healthy potato tops (1 kg) or 0.7 kg of dry tops, leave for 3 hours, strain and spray the plants against aphids.
Bulb onions. Infuse 200 g of chopped bulbs and scales in 10 liters of water for 12-18 hours, strain, and spray against aphids.
Garlic. Leave 200 g of chopped garlic heads in 1 liter of water in a closed container for 5 days. For spraying, 25 ml of infusion is dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Tobacco (shag). Infuse 200 g of dry crushed raw materials in 5 liters of water for 2 days. Strain and add another 5 liters of water. To prepare the decoction, follow the same proportions, but leave for only 1 day, then boil for 2 hours.
Dalmatian chamomile (Caucasian). 250 g of dry ground flowers are stirred in a small amount of water, topped up to 10 liters and sprayed on the plants. Or they mix powdered dried flowers with an equal amount of dust and pollinate the plants with the resulting mixture.
Pharmaceutical camomile. An infusion is prepared from dried leaves and inflorescences. 1 kg of raw materials is poured into 10 liters of water. Leave for 12 hours and filter. For spraying, take 1 part of the infusion and 3 parts of water. Add soap.
Dandelion. Raw castings (400 g) and roots (200) of dandelion, collected during flowering, are poured with 10 liters of water and left for 3 hours, filtered and sprayed against aphids. Take 30 g of dry raw materials. Prepare an infusion according to the same scheme.
Yarrow. Use dried plants (aerial parts), picked at the beginning of flowering. 1 kg of yarrow is poured with boiling water (2 l) and kept in a water bath for 40 minutes. The volume is adjusted to 10 liters and kept in a dark place for two days.
Horse sorrel. Roots horse sorrel(400g) pour hot water (10 l) and leave for 2-3 hours.
Celandine. Infuse 3 kg of raw grass or 1 kg of dry grass in 10 liters of water for 1-1.5 days, strain, and spray.
Tomatoes. 5 kg of the above-ground parts of tomatoes (or 2 kg of dry tops) are poured with boiling water and kept on low heat at a low simmer for 30 minutes. The cooled solution is filtered. For treatment, 3 liters of decoction and 30 g of soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water.
Mustard. 10 g of mustard powder is infused in 1 liter of water for two days. Add 4 liters of water and spray the affected plants.
Henbane black. In the fall, the rosette leaves and roots of plants of the first year of life are harvested (dried), and in the spring, at the beginning of flowering, the entire above-ground part of plants of the second year of life. The first is infused in an amount of 500 g, or the second (1 kg) in 10 liters of water for 12 hours. Before spraying, add 40 g of laundry soap. Caution should be exercised as the plant is poisonous to humans.
Datura common (poisonous). The entire ground part is harvested at the beginning of flowering. 1 kg of dry crushed raw materials is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 12 hours. Spray, strain and add 40 g of soap.
Hot chilli pepper. 1 kg fresh fruits or 0.5 kg of dry infuse for 24 hours in 10 liters of water. For spraying, take 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water.
Alder. Fresh alder leaves - 2 kg, or dry - 1 kg, leave in 10 liters of water for 24 hours, bring to a boil and simmer for 30-40 minutes.
Scots pine. Leave 2 kg of annual growth (needles) in 8 liters of water for a week, stirring occasionally. Before spraying, dilute with water 1:1.
Citrus. Pour 100 g of dry citrus fruit peels with warm water (1 liter), leave for three days and spray.
Marigold. Crushed plants with flowers are filled with water, twice the volume. Leave for 2 days, filter, spray with soap.
APHIS IN THE GARDEN. HOW TO FIGHT APHIES: birds, insects, agricultural technology.
Birds and insects against aphids.
Our allies in the fight against aphids are hoverflies, ladybugs (their larvae are the main enemies of aphids), surfflies, lacewings, ichneumon flies, ground beetles, some wasps, and predatory bugs. To attract them, dill, carrots, parsley and other fragrant herbs are planted in the garden. In the royal gardens of England, where chemical pest control agents are not used, ladybugs are specially prescribed for this purpose. They are delivered in special boxes and released in gardens.
The main allies of aphids are black ants; they must be fought with all available means. They feed on the sweet secretions of aphids and carefully protect their “breadwinner” from natural enemies. To get rid of ants, anthills are watered with boiling water, sprinkled with slaked lime, and bait is laid out.
For many small birds, aphids are an object of prey; they feed their chicks with it. Sparrows, tits, wrens, warblers and other small birds love aphids. To attract birds, birdhouses and feeders are built in the garden, ponds are arranged, or water containers are placed so that birds can have free access to them.
Plants against aphids.
Garden plants help in the fight against aphids. Some of them attract aphids, distracting them from the main crop. These are nasturtium, petunia, cosmos, mallow, beans, tuberous begonias, cleome. Others, on the contrary, repel aphids with their odorous volatile substances. They are planted between rows or along the edges of beds. Such phytoncidal and aphid-repellent plants include all fragrant herbs, garlic, onions, marigolds, coriander, mint, fennel, as well as pyrethrum and Dalmatian chamomile. Linden, bird cherry, and viburnum attract aphids. Planting them next to main crops is not recommended.
Correct agricultural technology against aphids.
Crop rotation, destruction of weeds and plant debris, as well as removal of root shoots and tops on the site help to reduce the number of aphids on the site. fruit trees. Aphids often lay their overwintering eggs there. Sowing green manure also helps to destroy and reduce the number of aphids. Proper agricultural technology and good care help to have healthy plants that are less affected by aphids than weak or “overfed” ones.
If all of the above methods of combating aphids in the garden do not help, resort to the use of chemicals.
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Aphids appear on cucumbers, as well as zucchini and pumpkin in July-August. This aphid is dark green, and almost even black. Its length is 1.5-2 mm. It feeds on plant juices, damaged leaves curl, flowers and ovaries fall off - colonies of aphids settle on the underside of leaves, on young shoots, on flowers, and on ovaries. They fight this pest in the same way as other aphids.
Small insects gather on the leaves of vegetables, sometimes in large number, forming so-called colonies - there can be ten, a hundred, or a thousand of these insects in a colony. Sometimes each colony grows so large that all the leaves are covered with insects.
Aphids feed on plant sap, and when there are too many aphids, the plants become exhausted and may die. Leaves damaged by aphids curl and die. The ends of the shoots become bent, stop growing, ripen poorly, and dry out in vegetable crops. At first, aphids feed on wild cruciferous plants, and then, when the leaves of these plants become coarser, they move to the garden.
You can significantly reduce the number of aphids on vegetable crops without the use of chemicals using ladybugs. These beneficial insects are attracted to dill and leaf mustard. Don’t be too lazy in the spring to bring ladybugs from the field grasses.
Non-chemical ways to control aphids:
Wood ash
An infusion of wood ash helps get rid of aphids. For this purpose, 10 l. water, take two glasses of ash and add 70-100 g of ordinary laundry soap. All this is mixed, it is infused for a day, and then the leaves of the plants on which the aphids have settled are sprayed with this infusion.
Tobacco infusion
It is prepared like this: 50 g of tobacco is poured into a container with 1 liter. hot water, 10 g of soap is added here, and everything is left to infuse throughout the day.
Infusion of onion and garlic
Also kills aphids. 70-90 g of onion or 40-60 g of garlic are finely crushed, and then pour 10 liters. warm water. Insist for 24 hours. Next, the plants are sprinkled with the infusion.
Celandine
To prepare the infusion, 1 kg. celandine herbs are scalded with 2-3 liters. boiling water, after some time add another 7-9 liters. hot water, leave it all to infuse for 2 days, and then spray the vegetables with the resulting infusion.
Yarrow
800-900 g of yarrow herb are poured into 2 liters of boiling water and infused for 60 minutes. The resulting infusion is added with water to 8 liters. and spray the plants with it.
Horse sorrel
300 g of crushed horse sorrel root is poured. Leave for 2-3 hours. The infusion is ready.
Dandelion
400-500 g of green dandelion leaves are poured with hot water (10 l.). Leave for 2-3 hours. This infusion also kills aphids.
Tomato tops
A decoction is usually prepared from tomato tops. For 10 l. water take 900-1000g. tomato tops (or side shoots - side shoots that are usually removed from tomato bushes as they appear) and leave for 4 hours. Afterwards, the infusion is brought to a boil and left for 3 hours. The resulting decoction is diluted with water 2-3 times and the finished decoction is sprayed on the plants on which aphids have appeared.
Potato tops
An infusion is prepared from potato tops. For this 1.2 kg. potato tops are crushed and filled with warm water - 10 liters. water per 1.2 kg. tops Leave for 2-3 hours. The resulting infusion is sprayed onto plants where aphids have infested. You should not put more tops on the bucket, because a more concentrated infusion can burn the leaves of the plants. Instead of fresh tops, you can use dry potato tops to prepare the solution. In this case, 10 liters. water take 60-80 g of dry tops.
Chemicals
Among the mild chemicals are foliar feeding (20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride per 10 liters of water). This phosphorus-potassium solution is sprayed on the leaves from below. The reception is repeated after 6-7 days. At the same time, drive away the ants. When aphids appear in a mass, use Fitoverm and Strela - effective and safe biological products; among insecticides - Intavir.
Kinmiks, decis, sumi-alpha, arrivo are very effective, but treatment with them should be stopped 20-30 days before harvest.
Many gardeners are faced with such a problem as zucchini diseases open ground and combating them, a photo will help identify the problem.
Zucchini suffers from viral or fungal pathologies and is affected by various pests. An accurate understanding of the problem will help you decide on the choice of method, how to deal with it, how to preserve and protect the crop.
How to deal with zucchini diseases?
The most common zucchini diseases, depending on the pathogen that causes them, are fungal. The culprits of the diseases can cause the death of leaves, fruits or roots. Control methods common to all diseases: compliance with crop rotation, timely removal of debris and weeds from the site, destruction of affected parts of the plant.
Favorable conditions for the development of diseases are nighttime temperature changes and increased humidity, for example, after rain or during excessive watering. The source of the pathogen is affected plants and seeds. Insects facilitate the spread.
Anthracnose
Fungal diseases of zucchini and their treatment are the most common problem that arises when growing crops in open ground.
Zucchini anthracnose is a fungal disease caused by a fungus of the genus Colletotrichum. First of all, weak and mechanically damaged plants at any stage of development are affected. Anthracnose affects zucchini planted in soil with increased acidity, with insufficient amounts of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Spots of yellow or Brown with a dark brown or purple edging, which quickly grow, first over the entire surface of the leaf blade, and then onto the stem, flowers and fruits. The lesions deepen into the thickness of the plant organs and impede the movement of water and nutrients.
The stems and fruits become covered with weeping, slimy spots and begin to rot over time, and the leaves begin to curl. The fruits shrink and acquire a bitter taste. Damage to the root zone leads to the death of the plant.
At the initial stage of anthracnose development, the shoots are sprayed with a 35% solution of colloidal sulfur, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture (100 g of copper sulfate and quicklime are diluted in 10 liters of water), and EM preparations.
Before sowing, the soil is dug up with wood ash, dolomite flour or lime to reduce acidity, and fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied.
Bacteriosis
Bacteriosis comes in two types and manifests itself either as angular leaf spot or as blossom-end rot of fruits.
With angular spotting, the leaves first turn white; why and why zucchini leaves turned white is not easy to determine, since similar damage develops with several other diseases of the crop. If later, instead of small white spots, angular brown spots appear, this is bacteriosis.
The disease affects the plant at the stage of cotyledon emergence. At first, the spots become dark green, then brown, dry out, and collapse, forming holes between the veins of the leaf plate. Because the holes are bounded by veins, they have an angular shape. Brown, watery sores appear on the fruits, which lead to deformation of the zucchini.
The fight consists of removing the affected parts of the crop. For minor lesions, the shoots are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.4% copper oxychloride solution. As a preventive measure, the seed is treated with a 0.02% solution of zinc sulfate, in which the seeds are immersed for a day and then dried.
Another type of disease is apical bacteriosis of fruits. In this case, the tops of the fruit first turn yellow, then brown spots appear on them. The lower part can grow further. Subsequently, the fruits become glassy and rot.
It is impossible to save a plant from apical bacteriosis - it will have to be destroyed.
White rot sclerotinia
The fungus can cause various putrefactive diseases of zucchini in open ground; it is much easier to identify the type of rot with a photo.
With white rot, or sclerotinia, a flaky appearance appears first. white coating on the leaves of squash with black dots, which over time spreads to the fruits, tendrils, cuttings and stems. White colonies of the fungus develop on them - sclerotia, which soon turn black.
Sclerotia fall off and overwinter in the ground, and in the spring they are a source of infection. Damaged areas of the plant become covered with mucus, soften and rot. If the base of the stem rots, the plant dies.
Excess nitrogen in the soil contributes to plant infection. Treatment consists of treating the affected areas on the zucchini with crushed activated carbon, wood ash or quicklime.
To combat the pathogen, the following measures are taken:
- Use for irrigation with warm water.
- Root feeding with a mixture of 10 liters of water, 1 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of copper sulfate, 10 g of urea.
- Dry and hot weather remove the affected plant organs. The sections are sprinkled with crushed coal or washed with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate.
- Substances containing calcium are used as fertilizer: ground shells chicken eggs, wood ash at the rate of 200 g of substance per 1 m². Phosphate fertilizers are introduced.
- The soil is irrigated with a solution of Fitolavin, and compost is added to restore the microflora.
Gray mold botrytis
Another type of putrefactive mycosis is gray rot. At the same time, the greenness of the grass changes, leaves become sick, and fruit ovaries suffer. Most often, young vegetable ovaries are affected. The fruits become watery, like other affected tissues, become wet, soften, turn brown, and become covered with a gray coating with black dots. The pathogen spores persist in the soil for up to 2 years.
The reasons that aggravate the conditions and methods of contracting the disease are the same as for white rot. The methods of fighting are also the same. The affected areas of the fruit can be powdered with a mixture of copper sulfate and chalk, combined in a 1:2 ratio.
Root rot
Root rot affects the plant, like blossom end rot, in the fruit formation phase and is manifested by rotting of the root system and neck. The affected tissue darkens and turns brown, becomes rotten and soft. The lower foliage turns yellow. The culture stops growing and fades, and eventually dies.
Root rot occurs due to frequent application of organic fertilizers. Plants can be treated with biological products Trichodermin and Glycoladine, which contain fungal spores that are antagonists of the rot pathogen.
Seeds 3 weeks before sowing can be treated with TMTD (Tiram) at the rate of 5-6 g/kg of seed. Infected plants are watered with a 0.1% Previkur solution at the rate of 200-300 ml for each bush. In addition, solutions containing metalaxyl and mefenoxam are used.
Powdery mildew
Another fungal disease of zucchini is white powdery mildew. In this case, ailments are manifested by the appearance on the leaves, less often on the stem and cuttings, of small round white spots sprinkled with powdery pollen - fungal spores.
Over time, the spots increase in size, merge with each other and cover the entire plant, as a result of which it turns yellow and dries out due to the impossibility of photosynthesis. In addition, the body of the fungus sucks nutritious juices from the crop, which leads to the impossibility of fruit formation. The fungus overwinters on weeds.
Affected plants are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur 35%, a solution of sodium phosphate 0.5%, a solution of isophrene 10% or powdered with ground sulfur at the rate of 300 g per 100 m².
Downy mildew peronosporosis
Downy mildew affects zucchini leaves at all stages of the growing season. Initially, yellow spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, which on the other side of the leaf are covered with gray-violet spores of the fungus.
The spots enlarge and merge with each other, which leads to browning and drying of the foliage. The disease progresses very quickly. Sometimes the outer side of the leaf becomes covered with a white coating. Despite the similar description, methods for treating peronosporosis are somewhat different from removing powdery mildew.
During treatment, watering is completely stopped. Healthy leaves are treated with a tank mixture, a solution of copper oxychloride, the drug Metriam, a mixture of fungicidal drugs and growth stimulants. For prevention, seeds are poured with hot water (+50 °C) for 15 minutes.
Black mold of pumpkin
Black squash mold can appear on the leaves and other above-ground organs of squash. Outwardly, it appears as small light brown spots, which merge over time and turn into foci of necrosis, covered with a black coating - spores of a fungus from the genus Aspergillus.
As a result of its vital activity, the green parts of the plant turn yellow and dry out, and the fruits stop developing, wrinkle and rot. High humidity and large temperature changes stimulate the course of the disease.
If a plant gets sick and is not cured, all the zucchini on the site gets sick.
Fusarium wilt
Diseases and pests: Zucchini pests most often affect the above-ground parts of plants. Fusarium is no exception. The first sign of this disease is yellowing and weakening of the upper leaves of the bush.
The stems turn brown at the bottom (root part) and become covered with a pink or orange coating. Fusarium also affects the roots. As a result, within a few days the plant dries out and dies. On a cross section of the stems, you can see browning of the veins.
In the initial stage of damage, you can dust the bush and the ground around it with wood ash, but this is of little use. The struggle consists of improving the soil - sowing green manure plants, applying organic and mineral fertilizers, using crop rotation, removing weeds, applying EM products and calcium preparations.
How to deal with zucchini pests?
The appearance and number of pests is affected by air humidity and temperature, crop density, irrigation intensity and general care behind the plot and crops. The reasons for the appearance of insects are too dense planting, littered beds, and high humidity.
melon aphid
The melon aphid first attacks weeds and then moves on to cultivated plants. Aphids gnaw leaf blades on the underside, stems, ovaries, and flower petals. The affected organs curl, dry out, and the flowers fall off. The growth and development of plants slows down, and then they die. During a season, aphids can produce up to 20 generations. The pest overwinters on plant debris.
Prevention methods include timely weeding of seedlings, removal of plant residues immediately after harvesting, and proper crop rotation.
To destroy aphids, use 10% solutions of Karbofos or Trichlorometaphos-3, an infusion of tobacco dust (1 part of the dust is infused with 10 parts of water and diluted clean water in a ratio of 1:3), infusion of yarrow (1 kg of herb is infused in 10 liters of water for 2 days).
Whitefly
The whitefly is a small white insect covered with powdery pollen. Both adults and larvae eat leaves and young shoots, suck out the juice from them, and also infect them with various diseases. The feces of adult insects corrode the leaf blade, which leads to the appearance of black spots on it.
Damage to zucchini is manifested by discoloration, curling and death of the leaves, and subsequently the entire plant.
The most effective drugs against whitefly: Aktara, Aktellik, Double Effect, Commander, Tanrek, Oberon and others. The products are diluted according to the instructions and sprayed on the plants and the soil around them with the frequency recommended by the manufacturers. Watering zucchini with insecticide solutions is more effective.
You can spray zucchini with onion or garlic infusion daily for a week.
Spider mite
The activities of spider mites are very harmful. It affects the undersides of leaf blades and entwines them with a thin web. Yellow dots form in the affected areas, then the leaves turn yellow completely, acquire a marble pattern and dry out. At to a large extent zucchini lesions die. Ticks produce up to 15 generations during the season, and overwinter in groups under plant debris and debris.
There are ways to get rid of the pest; spider mites can be destroyed by the following means:
- Spraying leaves in hot weather. Water can be replaced with infusion of onion peels or garlic. To prepare tinctures, 200 g of raw materials are poured into 10 liters of water and left for 2 days.
- Spraying with a 20% chloroethanol solution.
- Irrigation with Isofen solution 10%.
- Spraying ground sulfur at the rate of 300 g per 100 m².
To improve the adhesive properties of solutions, add 30 g of laundry soap.
Sprout fly
Sprout fly larvae can be found on germinating seeds and seedlings. Gray flies have a body size of no more than 3-5 mm. The insect summer begins in the spring. They lay eggs in places with high humidity, especially near manure.
Within a week, larvae hatch from the eggs and destroy the crops within 14 days. The larvae then pupate. During the warm season, 2-3 generations of germ flies appear. Germ fly larvae can be found especially often on leaves in cold summers.
As a preventive measure, you need to carefully incorporate manure into the soil, remove plant debris, and regulate watering. In the spring, before the beginning of summer, Karbofos or Fufanon are added to the soil. The aboveground part of the plant can be pollinated with wood ash, ground black pepper, and tobacco dust. For irrigation, use the following solution: 200 g of table salt and 10 liters of water.
Slugs
Slugs gnaw out the embryos in the seeds and eat the leaves on the shoots. Having fixed itself on a section of the stem, the mollusk gnaws it, which leads to the death of most of the plant. Later, pests gnaw out the ovary of the fruit or damage young zucchini, eating the pulp in them and even making tunnels.
In addition to reducing the yield, snails leave traces of mucus and other secretions on the affected area of the stem, leaf or fruit, thereby reducing the marketability of the product. Once in storage with the collected fruits, the slugs continue to cause damage, destroying the crop.
The easiest way to combat mollusks is mechanical. They are collected manually or using special traps. Traps are made from pieces of burlap or plywood and placed around the perimeter of the area. Protective grooves up to 30 cm wide are dug around the plantings and filled with pine needles, sand, and sawdust, which impede the progress of pests.
Special preparations are used: Metaldehyde granules are laid out (at the rate of 4 g per 1 m²), the consumption of which leads to the death of slugs, the soil and plants are sprayed with a solution of copper or iron sulfate, and lime is sprayed.
Viral diseases of zucchini and their control
Considering viral diseases of zucchini from photos, mosaics are most common. There are many varieties and strains of this disease, but the most common is cucumber or green mosaic.
Cucumber mosaic (lat. Cucumber mosaic)
Cucumber mosaic virus affects all types of melons, including squash. The infected plant is significantly delayed in development. The main symptoms of cucumber mosaic:
- the leaves are covered with mosaic spots of yellow and green;
- deformation and curling of leaves, formation of tubercles on them;
- internodes are significantly shortened;
- there is practically no harvest.
Viral diseases of zucchini and the fight against them cause a lot of trouble for summer residents; photos of infected plants will help you quickly recognize the virus and begin processing the plantings. The cause of infection is the appearance of an insect vector. For example, aphids, ants, Colorado potato beetles. Perennial weeds on the site allow the pathogen to survive winter cold in the soil.
Preventive measures:
- regular destruction of weeds along with their roots;
- fight against aphids and garden ants.
How the zucchini mosaic spreads
It is worth remembering that zucchini seeds cannot be infected with a virus, so planting material is not a source of infection. The disease affects only the leaves and stems of the plant; the pathogen overwinters on weeds and in the soil, and is transmitted by insects.
To combat the disease, it is effective to use such drugs as Aktara and Actelikt. With their help, you can slow down the development of the disease, or stop it at the initial stage.
Among traditional methods The fight is worth spraying with an infusion of onion peels or garlic. The pungent odor will repel aphids and stop the spread of the disease to neighboring plants.
Fungal diseases of zucchini and their treatment
Diseases most often affect zucchini in open ground. The most common group of diseases when grown outside greenhouse conditions is fungal. Their spores spread easily, so the likelihood of infection is one of the highest.
Powdery mildew (lat. Erysiphales)
Mealy fungi of the genus Erysiphales mainly affect the foliage of plants. Zucchini is no exception - leaf diseases in them manifest themselves in the formation of a whitish coating on the surface of the plant.
Old leaves are affected first. The plaque covers them completely and leads to drying. Ripened fungal spores are easily spread by the wind to other plants.
Since the source of infection is diseased plants, preventive measures consist of removing all plant debris from the area and burning it. The soil should be carefully dug up and weed rhizomes removed.
The spread of powdery mildew can cause the death of all melons on the site, so it is important to study diseases of zucchini and their treatment, photos and descriptions of signs of damage. In the initial stage, the disease is easily treatable with chemicals and folk recipes. To combat effectively use Nitrafen, Carboran, Kefalon. Processing should be carried out strictly according to the instructions.
Among folk remedies, an ash solution is best suited. It helps stop the spread of the disease. To prepare 1 kg of ash, infuse 10 liters of water for a week. Then add a little soap and spray the plants.
White rot (lat. Sclerotinia)
The fungus Sclerotinia Sclerotiorum is very dangerous for zucchini. The main causes of damage are cloudy, cool weather, dense plantings and watering with cold water.
The mycelium is located on the stems and fruits of zucchini. Gradually the vegetables become soft and mushy. Basic preventive measures:
- compliance with crop rotation;
- removal of infected fruits and parts of bushes;
- soil replacement;
- thinning of plantings.
An effective solution to the problem is to use lime or crushed coal: the affected areas must be sprinkled generously. Among the chemical preparations, there are those that contain copper: Oxychom, Kuproskat.
Pests of zucchini and their control
Melon aphid (lat. Aphis gossypii)
You can notice colonies of small insects on the bottom of the leaves. Pests suck the juice out of plants, causing them to dry out and die. They reproduce asexually, producing up to 20 generations of offspring per season.
The cause of infection is dense plantings and weeds on which insects overwinter. Preventive measures: cleaning and disposal of weeds and plant residues.
Recipe for tobacco tincture against aphids
Pour 1 part tobacco dust into 10 parts water and leave for 24 hours. Dilute the strained infusion with water in a ratio of 1:3, spray the plants when melon aphids are detected.
Recipe for aphids based on yarrow
Infuse 1 kg of dried yarrow herb in 10 liters of warm water for 2 days. Treat plants several times.
Sprout fly (lat. Delia Platura)
Pest in early spring affects young seedlings of zucchini, leading to their death. The reason for the settlement may be poorly disposed manure, in which the fly lays larvae. Since the pupae easily tolerate winter in the soil, in the fall it is necessary to deep dig the area, remove plant debris and carefully apply fertilizer.
An effective solution to the problem in early spring will be to add granular insecticides to the soil before planting: Karbofos, Fufanon.
You can repel the pest by dusting the plantings with sifted ash, ground pepper or tobacco dust. For irrigation, use water with table salt: 0.2 kg per 10 liters of liquid.
